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Twinkle Toes Traverse 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Seth Boatright, Chuck Richards, 1972
Season: dry
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: rhyang on Apr 7, 2013  with updates from Robert Hall

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BETA PHOTO: "70's climber humor", p2

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p1: Climb up the face just to the right of a right-facing corner, protected by two bolts. Place a piece before things get too hard, and then step up and left out of the corner onto the face. Don't make the mistake of going all the way up the corner. Head up the face to a bolted anchor.

p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.

Location 

The route starts about 30 feet to the left of Dos Equis, near an oak tree.

Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.

Protection 

4 quickdraws, a few shoulder-length slings, and a couple of small-to-midsize cams should suffice, as I recall.


Photos of Twinkle Toes Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging On !
BETA PHOTO: Hanging On !
Rock Climbing Photo: Holding THE Handhold.....
BETA PHOTO: Holding THE Handhold.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting P2 of Twinkle Toes (Larry Arthur photo)
BETA PHOTO: Starting P2 of Twinkle Toes (Larry Arthur photo)
Rock Climbing Photo: 29-Jan-2012: Steve Rathbun leading Twinkle Toes Tr...
29-Jan-2012: Steve Rathbun leading Twinkle Toes Tr...

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