Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter . April 23 2008
Page Views: 2,504 total · 13/month
Shared By: Paul Ross on Apr 26, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Starts up a groove that has rather poor rock on the NW side of the Tower. A cleaner and easier looking first pitch was seen when the FA party rapped off and was climbed by the second ascent party, though sadly it was buried by rockfall. These will be both shown on a photo of the tower.

Original start P1) Climb the groove past two bolts to the shoulder area below the twin towers to double anchors on the left side of the ledge. 100' 5.8 C1.

P1A) An easier and safer first pitch was located on the north side. Scramble under a chockstone to a 5.10 or C1 finger crack that widens to an offwidth and then a 5.8 chimney capped by a small roof. Scramble easily to the anchor after pulling over the roof.  Unfortunately this pitch was obliterated by a huge rockfall.

P2) Climb intermittent cracks in the center of the rock leading up to the gap between the two towers. 70' 5.8 C1.

P3) Follow about 4 to 5 drilled angles to a ramp leading to the right edge, then two more angles to a fine summit and register in cairn. 70' 5.8 C1.

Rap the route. From the shoulder rap straight down from the anchors.

Location Suggest change

From the junction of the North Coal Wash Road and the Devils Racetrack, drive a few miles to the base of the very obvious tower. From here it is a short 10 minute walk to the foot of the tower. There is a campsite with a small fire ring just before a nasty drop in the road before reaching the tower.

Protection Suggest change

Normal desert rack of cams and stoppers. One 60m rope

Photos

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