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Summit Crags
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Twin Cracks 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,045
Submitted By: Andrew R. on May 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Tanya Chupa on the final corner/crack of Twin Crac...


up twin cracks to black streak. follow around the right side of the roof to slab


not sure

Photos of Twin Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Purple line is Twin Cracks
Purple line is Twin Cracks

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By K Baumgartner
Aug 18, 2013

Not sure what the "slab" reference is to when you go around the corner.

This is an off-width crack that will require probably one each of #3-6.

I placed a #3 and #4, tried to work off the moves, then bailed over to Groovy.

I'm not the best with off-width, but pulling up into the crack felt harder than 5.7. Crescent Moon at the New--an offwidth--was easier than this route.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Aug 19, 2013

I think the slab you're referring to, with the wide crack that runs up a slabby dihedral, is one of the "Pedestal" variations. And for the record, I totally agree, except I don't think it's harder than 5.7. My buddy stole my 4 and 5 to do something else in the area, so the biggest I had was a 3. I placed it at the beginning of that slabby dihedral and when I got past it and looked at runout groundfall potential, I bailed. My buddy, having a solid runout lead head, moved past it and pasted sketchy, licheny smears with his left, and heel-toe cammed with his right, all the way up until he could plug a 2 at the lip before you pull that small bulge. If you have at least 1 #5 or #6 to plug somewhere in that slabby crack, it's relatively PG13. Without it, definitely R. Good to see some folks up on the Rag pulling some of those great routes.
By K Baumgartner
Aug 25, 2013

Thanks for the comments Jake.

I've done Pedestal before and we were uphill from that route. I led up the route outlined in Eric Horst's book and as identified in the overview photo here on MP.

Not sure to which dihedral you're referring. The Twin Cracks route that I thought I was on went up the cracks and then into the corner on the left. It's definitely off width.

If you check out my photos from atop Groovy, the route I bailed on is to climbers left about 15-20 feet in the corner.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Aug 26, 2013

The slab I'm talking about is to climber's left of Pure Fun, so nowhere near Groovy. I misunderstood what you were saying and from the description you offered, it seemed like the same place/route. If you look at the route lines pic, the ledge with the horizontal undercling (left edge of the pic, left of PF) is where you end up if you climb the route I was referring to. It finishes either straight up, or you can traverse right and end up at the same place where you build an anchor for Pure Fun.

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