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Supercrack Buttress
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? T 
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Pringles T 
Savelli Crack T 
super bubbushka T 
Super Surprised T 
Supercrack of the Desert T 
Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
Twin Cracks T 
Unknown T,TR 
Unknown Left of The Wave T 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 
Wave, The T 
Wild Works of Fire T 
Zow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Twin Cracks 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,716
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Sep 27, 2001

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twin cracks

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


A beautiful fun route, and the easiest crack system on Supercrack Buttress. There's a good bit of liebacking on the smaller crack and then jamming and laddering on the wider to good anchors 40' up. It's not a classic and hence usually open; well worthwhile for climbing as a moderate on the buttress or while waiting for other climbs on the north end.

Climb up the main trail to Incredible Hand Crack and head N (left) about 80'. If you hit a leaning pillar at 130', you've gone about 40' too far - head back past a large bush. The little crack is in a right-facing dihedral, and the larger crack becomes the primary about 20' up. Good anchors, good toprope or something to play on when you're waiting or pumped from more serious endeavours.

It's a very good route, but only rates 2 stars because of the stellar stuff surrounding it.


Double rack plus of #1 to #3 camalots for the short route should suffice. The left crack takes the small gear early, then the right takes the larger stuff later.

Photos of Twin Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendy leading twin cracks.
Wendy leading twin cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anunta V climbing up the left crack
Anunta V climbing up the left crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonah wilkey leading twin cracks
Jonah wilkey leading twin cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Twin cracks.
Twin cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff H on lead of Twin Cracks
Jeff H on lead of Twin Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Whatever works on Double Cracks!
Whatever works on Double Cracks!
Rock Climbing Photo: Suzy Williams on lead.  This is a short pitch, fun...
Suzy Williams on lead. This is a short pitch, fun...
Rock Climbing Photo: first lead in the creek!
first lead in the creek!
Rock Climbing Photo: Real men...haloween 2012
Real men...haloween 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Twin Cracks.  Great jams!
Starting up Twin Cracks. Great jams!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the anchors, 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the anchors, 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: my first creek lead
my first creek lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Twin Cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Me on Twin Cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: bh at the top of twin cracks.
bh at the top of twin cracks.

Comments on Twin Cracks Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 16, 2014
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 6, 2002

Every time I've been to IC there have been gaggles of people hanging on Twin Cracks all day long. It seems to be the favorite entry level climb.

I'm also a little confused about the rating. Maybe 5.8 or 5.8+. It seems far easier than other nines in the area. For example, Generic Crack is called 5.9+. To me, Generic should be rated at least a full grade more difficult than Twin Cracks.
Mar 23, 2002

Great crack, easily protected and not too sustained. I will also add I would place it at a 5.8 or 5.8+ Its easy to get away without actually climbing the crack for those unexperianced indian creek cracksters like myself.
By Friso Schlottau
Mar 31, 2002

Just got back from my second trip out there, and I HIGHLY recommend this as a first climb in the area. Twin Cracks is awsome, but NOTE: RIGHT HANGER IS LOOSE!
By Darin Lang
Apr 16, 2002

I agree that this is an excellent climb, and a good introduction to the area. I would also call it 5.8+ at most, whether you use the cracks or not. Probably closer to 5.8 if you use the cracks - once located, the jams are reassuringly bomber all the way up (unless you have small hands - then you might have an off-fist or two at the top with good face holds for your right hand), and good rests are easily located.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you are looking for a 5.8, you only have a few options so do the route, but it's just not that good compared to the splitters.

Only the top is a little burly, but it's short.
By Steve Powell
Oct 3, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this is a fun route
By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Poor little crack don't get no respect. Anyway, I protected it with 2 #3 Cammies at the ends and 2 #2's in in the middle. The climbing is so incredibly positive, you really don't need pro until the thing splits. At least I thought so.
By natcat03
Dec 1, 2008

The right bolt is now GONE. One bolt remains at the anchor.
Fun, easy climb.
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009

Awesome warm-up if you wake up EARLY.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Many climbs here seem to have sandbag grades (especially for an over-the-hill slab climber) but this is a very soft touch. Barely 5.8 - Hard Severe 4b in Yorkshire.
By Devin Fin
Jan 14, 2010

i put in 2 bolt this rocktober. lets keep it safe.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wouldn't you know? The (new) right hanger is spinin', just like it's brethren past...
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2011

Fun climb. Did the left option at the top as forgot the 4 in the parking. Maybe slightly stiffer this way but definitely still fun. Lots of big rope grooves at the top from it being top roped. Solid 5.8
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Anyone know about that second pitch? It looks enticing - especially climbing the OW variation behind the flake, assuming you can protect it!
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Oct 29, 2012

Fun, easy lead! Bring a #4 so you can exit the right crack below the anchor. I had to run this out because I didn't bring it...
By Michael Swartz
Sep 4, 2013

Second pitch: it's very good, a little harder than the first pitch. Bring a #4 C4 and bump it or bring two of them and you'll be fine (also several 3s, I believe). Mostly laybacking in the beginning, with multiple cracks to choose from at times.
By Casey Graham
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 25, 2013

Agreed, the second pitch is a bit more stiff. 5.10ish? It's a cool 3 dimensional pitch, but I definitely though that flake was scary. Sounds super hollow and weak. We protected the pitch with smaller stuff in the broken cracks to the left (mostly nuts if I remember correctly).
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Got some good fist over fist jamming practice at the top. So I thought it was worth trying! Fun little climb to warm-up on or finish the day with.

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