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Dark Tower T 
Glennevere S 
Lothlorien S 
Memory of Trees, The S 
Minas Tireth S 
Road to Isengard S 
Twin Cracks Left T,S 
Twin Cracks Right T,S 
Twin Peaks S,TR 

Twin Cracks Left 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, August 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 1,921
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 18, 2006

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  • Description 

    Twin Cracks Left (and Twin Cracks Right) begins with the first half of Twin Peaks and goes left into a separate crack system at the undercling (where the other goes right). The crux is somewhere along the crack (you decide). The crack itself is solid rock, mostly hands and fingers. Recommend: skip the bolt just beneath the undercling and place pro out left (where you are going anyway).

    Location 

    This route begins with Twin Peaks and branches left at the undercling.

    Protection 

    QDs for 3 bolts plus gear up to 3 inches. Climb to a great ledge at the top of the crack. There is no fixed anchor, but two finger-sized cracks 4 feet above the ledge provide excellent gear anchors. Belay up your partner and walk off...or rappel 100 feet from a tree just south of the belay ledge. This tree has no slings and rings at time of writing.


    Photos of Twin Cracks Left Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermar...
    BETA PHOTO: Closeup of routes on the left side of The Watermar...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of The Watermark.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Loose section...be careful.
    BETA PHOTO: Loose section...be careful.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon working up the crack.
    Peter Dillon working up the crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: RR coming back up the crack after 4 hours of truly...
    RR coming back up the crack after 4 hours of truly...

    Comments on Twin Cracks Left Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 2, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Longer and more varied than Twin Cracks Right. My partner clipped the bolt below the undercling with a long runner before moving left. Fun moves up the crack and arete. Near the top of the crack, he angled right to the anchor on Twin Peaks and lowered from there. I followed and cleaned the pitch. I think many people will do the climb this way instead of continuing up to the ledge and building a gear anchor.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    May 31, 2008
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Clipping the 3 bolts is not required for this climb. A yellow and blue Metolius as well as a large (3 or 4) sized cam protect the lower section.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 3, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Surprisingly good! Crack is all but invisible from the ground but magically appears once you reach the undercling. Super solid jams and pretty clean rock. Do it!

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