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Twin Butte

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East Twin Butte 
West Twin Butte  

Twin Butte Rock Climbing 


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Location: 34.83343, -111.76322 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,081
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Feb 26, 2017
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Streaker Spire summit panorama

Description 

Twin Butte is a beautiful area on the southern boundary of Sedona, near The Chapel of the Holy Cross which is a popular tourist destination. If there is such a thing as a condensed area in Sedona, this is it.

West Twin Butte is the place to be if you are looking for sport routes. Crags such as The Planetarium, The Cemetery, and The Beach Areas offer up everything from slickstone slab routes to overhanging jug hauls on both Coconino and Schnebly sandstone. There are a handful of good trad routes to be found here as well, so you might want to bring the rack in case something catches your eye.

East Twin Butte has a few sport routes, but it's the trad climbing here that's really going to spur you into action. Home to The Church Spires, The Church and Religion Walls, The Trundler's Club Buttress, and more. The routes vary from old school spire summits, to 5.12 finger cracks, with confirmed classics.

Getting There 

The main access is off of Chapel Road, though alternatives exist. See individual pages for details.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

63 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',20],['5.11',17],['5.12',13],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Twin Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Twin Butte:
Original North Face Route   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 225'   Church Spires Area : Streaker Spire
Easy Rider   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Lower Religion Wall
Genesis   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 65'   Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Church Wall
Follow Your Bliss   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Church Wall
Poop Chute   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Lower Religion Wall
Reef Shark   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach Areas : Lower Beach
Starship Trooper   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   West Twin Butte : The Planetarium
Trundler's Club   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   East Twin Butte : Trundler's Club Buttress
Space Cowboys   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   West Twin Butte : The Planetarium
Sun Dogs   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   West Twin Butte : The Planetarium
Typhoon   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Beach Areas : Lower Beach
Castles in the Sand   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Church Wall
Red Lizard   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   West Twin Butte : The Cemetery
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Lower Religion Wall
Do The Bosco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   West Twin Butte : The Planetarium
Pussy Mind Trick    5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   East Twin Butte : Trundler's Club Buttress
Lunar Lander   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   West Twin Butte : The Planetarium
Alpine Follies Hangover   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Upper Religion Wall
Mission To Mars   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   West Twin Butte : The Planetarium
Galactic Hitchhiker   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   West Twin Butte : The Planetarium
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Twin Butte

Featured Route For Twin Butte
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Walka on a fantastic February day

Space Cowboys 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : The Planetarium
Arete to the left of Mission To Mars. Crumbly and loose start with "ok" gear. The rest of the route is really, really fun....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Comments on Twin Butte Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 26, 2017
Trying to clean these areas up a bit, so they will be more congruent with published guides. It will take a day for the route counts to adjust.

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