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Trick Or Treat Wall
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Twilight's Last Gleaming 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: John Jackson, 1994
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Brad Young on Oct 9, 2014

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The first pitch of this route ascends a very pretty face (in a very pretty location). Added pitches then make full use of the cliff.

Start at the left-most toe of Trick Or Treat Wall's main/south face. Move in from the left across the first bolt to a stance, and a second bolt (an alternate, very challenging mantle/direct start can be made past the first bolt too). This pitch then continues up this pretty face from here, passing eight more bolts (ten on the pitch total). End at a two bolt, hanging belay (open cold shuts) on a face, 95 feet up, or move up above the face and belay on the ledge.

The second pitch is easy; move up to a low-angle chimney and follow that to the base of the third pitch (this pitch is 40 feet long).

The third pitch (reported in the John Jackson guidebook to be 5.8) ascends the steep and featured face above for 45 feet to the top of the crag.

Walk off left.

Now, about the "5.11" grade (for a route the first ascentionist reported as "5.10a" ). First, the author of this entry does not (ever) use split grades and or partial grades ("5.11" is a partial grade). However, unfortunately it appears that at least one and probably two significant holds have broken off right of and down from the second bolt, and that this climb is much, much harder now than when it was put up. Certainly there are scars from broken rock right where holds would be if this route was actually 5.10a (the biggest is a four inch by five inch scar which in particular looks like it may have once been a nice side-pull/thin flake?).

The partial grade is used because this author has no idea how hard the route really is at this one spot; although he was able to make the committing moves past the first bolt, and he was able to successfully clip the route's second bolt, he was totally unable to make any further progress past that bolt. Not a move in a place where, according to the Jackson book, the continued climbing is "5.9+." This inability to progress occurred during a period when that same author had onsighted 5.10d and 5.11a face climbs and redpointed 5.11b face climbs.

It doesn't appear that this route is 5.10 any longer (although if other climbers try the route and disagree, this entry/report will gladly be edited to reflect new information).


Slings and quickdraws and a light rack.

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By John Jackson
Oct 10, 2014

Sounds like that, very thin, key hold by the second bolt may have broken, which would be a shame since this is/was such a nice route for the grade. The crux was at the second bolt (.10a) and is/was only a tiny bit easier than the direct start mantle off of the knob. One of my favorite routes at Deep Creek, probably have climbed it more than a dozen times but not in a couple of years. Will check it out next time I am there; as I still have some unfinished projects at Deep Creek to get back on...

Also, easier to belay off the ledge on the first pitch instead of a hanging belay. Jon Fox and I put the anchors in, hand drilled btw, just below the ledge so that our rope could, barely, reach the ground for a single rope rappel/top rope attempt before it was "sent".

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