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Moving left at the roof.
|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
This is yet another obscure Eldo route that can be used as an alternate start to Heavy Weather.
Trek up the boulder field to Upper Peanuts Wall. Find the start of Heavy Weather, look 15 feet right.
Find a small dihedral with a squeeze chimney above. Delicately, move up the dihedral on reasonable edges, lightly sprinkled with lichen, on the left wall. Slot lots of smaller wires. Gain a ledge. A long reach to a good left hold, another good left hold, a left pinch, and then you are left to contemplate the squeeze chimney. A #4 camalot fits nicely in its base. Follow this with a look right and find glorious bucket holds that permit virtual climb of the squeeze without the reality abrasions. Move up through fractured rock to the top of a block. Either move up and right a short crack to a large tree or loop the top of the block (to keep down the drag) and downclimb to the tree (with 3 slings and rings, 100ft off the deck) at the top of Gravity's Angel/Heavy Weather's 1st pitch.
light Eldo rack, emphasis on small wires, a #4 camalot can be nice
Below the wide section. A #4 or #5 Camalot comes i...
BETA PHOTO: At the start of the climb.