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Twilight Years 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jun 10, 2015

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun route that has some interesting moves down low and then fun jug hauling up high. After climbing easily to the first clip, moving past a thin-hands crack (placing a cam along the way if you like), and clipping the next bolt, things get interesting. Make crux moves past the next few bolts to a good ledge. Some bolts down low cannot be easily seen from the starting ledge but show up when you need them. After gaining a ledge with a no-hands rest, continue more easily to the top on big holds.

(The route name was obtained from the guidebook to the park by Dave Bingham.)


The route starts about 20 feet to the right of Pre-Emptive Strike. Scramble up to the start of that route and continue a bit to the right on the same platform until you see the next set of bolts.


Bolts. I forgot to make an exact count but I'd say a dozen draws plus something for the anchor should be sufficient. A thin-hands size piece can be placed between the first two bolts; there's currently a very stuck cam in that area that can be clipped. Bolted rappel anchor at the top. We used a 70m rope and had plenty left after lowering. I think a 60m rope should work.

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