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Treasure Wall
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Twilight Time 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 7/15/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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Bill H. leading Twilight Time.

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  • Description 

    A fun sport route with neat stemming.

    Take the Treasure Wall approach and go about 30' up the hill, just right of a big pine tree next to the wall.

    Climb the steep face, with crux stemming past the 3rd bolt. Continue up with more cool stemming moves. Traverse right to a little pine, then go straight up to the anchor on a good ledge.

    The anchor is shared with Bobby's Back; you can TR that route after climbing this one.

    Descent: Lower 60' back to the start.

    We did the first ascent around 8:30 pm with just enough light to see; hence the name "Twilight Time".

    Location 

    Take the Treasure Wall approach. Go right and uphill about 30' to the start of the route, just right of a big pine tree next to the wall.

    Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. The last bolt and the anchor are shared with Bobby's Back.


    Photos of Twilight Time Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Twilight Time.
    Twilight Time.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Matthews leading Twilight Time.
    Andrew Matthews leading Twilight Time.

    Comments on Twilight Time Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Sep 2, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Fun route.
    By djoseph
    Sep 19, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Pleasant line. I believe (?) that in addition to the anchor, the last bolt is also shared with Bobby's Back. At least, I clipped it. Nice hooks for anchors!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 22, 2007
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I lead it on gear, cleaning the little cracks up as I went. It goes 5.9+ on gear, no real runouts if you have some brass or steel. If I'd had ball nuts I would have sewn it up tight.
    A majority of the route goes easily without bolts, some I had to tinker with, but it was all protected.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 8, 2008

    Nice line and you can also then top rope the route to the right if you wish.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 29, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This climb is probably easier clipping bolts than placing gear, but it ain't harder than 5.9 as a sport route.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    Jul 12, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I wouldn't come to the crag for this one, but we had a lot of fun on it when we were there. The stemming moves above the third bolt are great! I don't think I could call this 10a, though there are much easier 9s in the canyon.
    By a Ball
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 14, 2015

    FYI: 3rd bolt is apparently a little loose. My partner tried to hand tighten it...and then whipped on it...it stayed put.

    Climbing itself is a ton of fun. Not very hard if you climb creatively.

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