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Twilight Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosmic Thing T 
Free Me 
Free Me (free) T 
Rome In a Day S 
Sunset Arete S 
Unknown T 
Without Wheels T 

Twilight Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.53601, -111.80204 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,216
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 20, 2005
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A northeast-facing granite buttress with both crack climbing and face climbing at low elevation and a sense of solitude. Most routes are in the .10s and .11s, with a couple of nice aid climbs as well. The most striking line has got to be Sunset Arete, with its varnished patina face climbing through solution pockets.

All routes except For Lorne can be descended with a single 60m rope.

In the summer, the buttress is in the sun in the morning, but shaded in the late afternoon.

Getting There 

Driving from BCC and LCC: take Wasatch Blvd south to about 11000 S., where it turns west (at 1700 E). There is a LDS church and a park on the outside corner of this turn. Park at the park.

Follow a paved trail SE until it meets an old dirt road towards the Shoreline Trail. Follow this steep road past a baracade and up... and up... When you get to a concrete catchment, cross the stream and bushwhack to the obvious granite buttress. It looks like there was once a trail, but many trees have fallen and erased it. Approach time ~ 35 min.

Climbing Season

For the Wasatch Range area.

Weather station 5.7 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Twilight Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Twilight Buttress:
Sunset Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Twilight Buttress

Featured Route For Twilight Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Hendy on "Rome In a Day

Rome In a Day 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Twilight Buttress
Great route, but there are no anchors directly above (they're around the back of a sharp ridge). I had to climb back to the last face bolt and leave a biner. Still a great line. The crux is probably right below the last face bolt and clipping this bolt. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Twilight Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a picture of the wall
BETA PHOTO: Here is a picture of the wall

Comments on Twilight Buttress Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2017
By Todd H
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 3, 2015
Tanner, you are confused. The rock identified on your photo is not the Twilight Buttress. Twilight is further up the canyon, on the south side (north facing slope). I believe what you think is Twilight is actually known as Big Willow Quartzite.
By user id
Jul 3, 2015
Read Tanner's comment if you want to get really lost and not climb

Your picture is no where near the Twilight Buttress. Try using a guide book once and a while, its one of those things with paper and directions inside. Plenty of people with more sense have been here well under 10 years ago, and a few have even been there this spring. I will give you credit for persevering, you spent hours looking for a trail and neither you or your partner thought you might be in the wrong place?
By nooky brown
Jul 3, 2015
Too funny, the "Proj" strikes again.
By zoso
Jul 3, 2015
A "guide" what now???
By nooky brown
Jul 3, 2015
Bifocals are the way zozo
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 3, 2015
Pretty amusing that you can see the jeep road on this picture. Maybe following that ROAD to a large buttress made of GRANITE on the SOUTH side of the canyon would have helped? The anchor points are fine...
By Tanner Wilcox
From: Provo, UT
Jul 8, 2015
Alright guys no need to be dicks about it. I read the instructions on how to get there and I followed them. I also looked at pictures and matched it to that rock. In the getting there it says to go until you reach the catchment and that's what I did. If you want to actually be helpful could you please post a google maps style picture like I did that shows where it is?
By grk10vq
Jul 8, 2015
click: View Map on the top of this page

or you could try using a guide book?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 8, 2015
How the hell do you match pics of a granite buttress to a chunk of red quartzite?
You didn't find a catchment, you found a pipe bridge... Didn't you wonder why it only took you 10 minutes to get there instead of 35?

Rock Climbing Photo: That would be how to get to Twilight
That would be how to get to Twilight
By Tanner Wilcox
From: Provo, UT
Jul 8, 2015
Dude quit being an asshole I'm just trying to find a climb with pretty bad information. The instructions never say that the roads end and the top of the rock looked similar to the top of the rock in the picture. I don't understand your frustration I'm just asking for help
By Tofu Brain
From: Denver
Jul 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: He has already been there!
He has already been there!

Tanner is a troll, he sent Sunset Arete on the 2nd!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 8, 2015
Asshole? You ungrateful twat, I made you a map!

I'm sorry to hear that the top of both buttresses look similar and it threw you off. I'm impressed your persevered without realizing that the nature of the rock, the approach time and orientation of the crag were wrong. I imagine you had your phone with you to compare pics? Gotta wonder in which state you'd have ended up if you had been going by the guidebook...

Congrats though, you probably made a rare repeat of:

Rock Climbing Photo: The other Sunset Arete
The other Sunset Arete

Although the description for that pile doesn't make it sound like you should have had a major Survivor moment in talus and scrub oak.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jul 9, 2015
This is what happens when shuts down...
By Graden Swett
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 26, 2017
Went out here to climb Sunset and found a very formidable gate, large no trespassing sign, and barbed wire blocking the road just uphill from the red gate. Seems like too many dog owners had been taking their poopy pooches up into the watershed and the water company got pissed.

From what I heard, Sunset is an awesome climb with exhilarating moves and a killer view, very reminiscent of City Of Rocks in rock quality.
I guess its got really nice protection through the first three bolts or so, and then there is this trippy section where the bolts get a little more spaced out before some much needed jugs and then the chains. Well, that's what I heard, anyway.

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