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Twice Cooked Whopper 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brad Johnson, James Markovsky
Season: 3 season
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: Brad J on May 2, 2013

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Description 

Second move crux followed by several moves to the Secret Sauce ledge. Once off the ledge the climbing is continuous, tricky and hard. The true crux is the final couple of moves to the anchor. Look for rests after leaving the upper ledge.

Location 

Twice Cooked Whopper is the second route on the right side of the obvious arete. From the ground you will need to 3rd class up approximately 12 feet to the Secret Sauce ledge. Refer to the guide on the main Emeralds Page. (Photos)

Protection 

Bolts with musseys.


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By FelicityMuth
Aug 17, 2015

Loved this route! For me (as a shorter person) the crux was the moves from the ledge to the next bolt.
By kyletan
Oct 12, 2015

Incredibly well thought-out route that follows sections of powerful liebacks up thin edges and cracks on small feet/smears. The crux could be off the small ledge mid route that requires strong and committed liebacking and toe smearing on a thin crack to the next bolt. Psychological as well due to potential for ankle injury on the ledge from a botched attempt. The next section to the anchor is beta intensive, and was the crux for me. It's comprised of reachy moves on small edges that for me demanded very specific foot placement to pull off. Unlocking this sequence was the icing on the cake to an amazing route.
By John Robinson
From: Elk Grove, ca
Dec 12, 2015

Paul Brabham: I will never be able to lead this climb. (we'll see about that)

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