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Twelve Pack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 5/96
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007

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Up the corner past a technical tricky spot and on to a roomy ledge with a dying tree on it. Break left just under the tree and follow a line of bolts up the steep wall above. There is a crux overcoming the steepest part of the wall and on to some decent crimps. A little run out here... Climb a crack to the right clipping a thank god bolt on the left and up to the chains.

A great climb that is plagued by wetness (just the first half) and tucked in to a corner that is not often explored. But it is very worth while when dry.


Start in the often wet corner just left of Lichen Dike.


10 bolts to anchors.

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By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 12, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The manky, mossy start to Twelve Pack (and to Dirty Dozen) is fine when dry, but really nasty when wet, and it is often wet. This route is harder than Dirty Dozen (more technical and more beta-dependent), but it's definitely worth doing. However, there is a twelve foot run-out between the bolt protecting the crux and the next one. This is a difficult section of the climb. You're going a l-o-n-g way if you blow the clip on that last bolt.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 12, 2016

I reclimbed this recently and remembering it was a bit run out, I was glad I brought the random cam that was in the bottom of my pack. It made getting to the bolt a lot more comfortable. A fat finger sized cam or even a large nut will work well. I am contemplating rebolting it a bit, but that will wreck the name, though I guess it could be a dozen bolts and anchor;) I was pleasantly surprised at how good the actual climbing was after all these years, but it was a nice dry day.I agree with Nick that it could use some recleaning on the bottom and to avoid when wet.
By S. Neoh
Aug 12, 2016

I have done Dirty Dozen a number of times but never this route. Thanks for the tip about bring an extra cam/nut for the runout section. High on my Rumney to-do list this Fall.

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