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The Blues Cliff
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Accidental Discharge S 
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Starfish T,S 
Twelve Gauge IQ T 
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Written in Stone S 

Twelve Gauge IQ 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Greg Collum, Matt Kerns
Page Views: 871
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008

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12-Gauge IQ follows the red line. Black Cat Bone i...

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Description 

Starts with a prominent right-tending flake and knobs. A steep beginning is followed by lower angled climbing into a corner. Climb the discontinuous bolted finger crack in the corner up to the large, blocky roof. Turn the roof via a boulder problem and continue up on steep jugs to the anchor. The route gets a .12b/c in books but is less difficult than others of the grade at Index simply because it's more straightforward. The corner and possibly the whole climb could potentially be led with gear, but most will clip the bolts. This route is a true gem and an area classic.

Location 

Located on the left portion of the wall. A 60m rope lowers.

Protection 

Bolts. Fixed anchors on top.


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By Ol Toby
From: CA
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is really fun. Despite it's bolted nature, the dihedral climbing is high quality on beautiful stone and the roof succumbs to good beta and a few gymnastic pulls. No doubt easier than the other .12c I've tried at Index.

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