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Rat Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Boogie 
Butter 
Death By Dizzy 
flake, The 
High Traverse 
Layback 
Mother's Milk 
Polish Traverse, The 
Rat Rock Dyno 
Testpiece 
Tweaky Shit 
Tweaky Shit (variation) 
Tweaky Shit Traverse 
Unsorted Routes:

Tweaky Shit 

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: 1980's
Page Views: 1,325
Submitted By: rogerbenton on Sep 28, 2011

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Description 

About 5 feet left of the flake, find a small crimpy set of holds over head height. The right hand hold has been broken off and epoxied back on (like about 20 other holds here), the left is a crescent shaped situation that is equal parts sidepull and crimper. Once feet are on the rock shoot for the rail above, then crystals above that, and topout straight up.
Getting off the ground is the crux.

Harder variations include traversing into this from the flake directly to the right (or beyond);
or starting on the left hand gaston/right hand crimp below the start holds mentioned above with a toe out right near the ground, then moving up into the original start position (v3+?).

Location 

East face of Rat Rock, Between the oak trees but closer to tree on climber's left.

Protection 

spotter, pad optional,


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By Dan Katz
Jul 9, 2016

This problem is usually considered to go at V3. There's a harder variation (also V3), which sit-starts at the bulge hold right of the flake, and traverses in - While the original problem is basically a one-move wonder, this harder variation adds a ~V2 start, with an additional ~V3 move before getting into the crux of the original route.