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Nurse Ratchet leads the first ascent of Tuxedo Jun...
This route has two distinct sections, starting with a 5.7 crack and finishing with a 5.7 face.
The Iceberg is located between the East and West Penguins. On the south face, start up a hand crack just to the left of a left-facing chimney. Climb up and left, finishing on the bolted face above.
Take a selection of small to medium pieces, up to 3 inch cams. Slings are useful, and draws to protect the bolted finish.
Nov 29, 2009
TR'd this today. Climbs better than it looks. I took a direct line on TR. The first move of which is loose, but from there the direct is on good rock. probably 5.9ish move? Descent is made from Mussy hooks or it's also possible to down climb a crack on the east face at very easy 5th class (also an easy way to set up a TR on this and "who says I'm not".