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Tuxedo Junction 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: E. Holland, B. Bindner
New Route: Yes
Season: Sunny, South-Facing route
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Apr 12, 2009

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Nurse Ratchet leads the first ascent of Tuxedo Jun...


This route has two distinct sections, starting with a 5.7 crack and finishing with a 5.7 face.


The Iceberg is located between the East and West Penguins. On the south face, start up a hand crack just to the left of a left-facing chimney. Climb up and left, finishing on the bolted face above.


Take a selection of small to medium pieces, up to 3 inch cams. Slings are useful, and draws to protect the bolted finish.

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By munge
Nov 29, 2009

TR'd this today. Climbs better than it looks. I took a direct line on TR. The first move of which is loose, but from there the direct is on good rock. probably 5.9ish move? Descent is made from Mussy hooks or it's also possible to down climb a crack on the east face at very easy 5th class (also an easy way to set up a TR on this and "who says I'm not".
By Russ Walling
Apr 15, 2017

Easy crack leads to chossy hollow edge pulling. Unless you are at your limit on such affairs, no crack pro is needed. If you are a wig master or want pro, take a few cams in the 1" to 3" range and a couple long slings. Not a full on 1 star route... I'd go a generous .788 stars on this one.

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