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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Larry Shubarth & Greg Stevens, '81? Stewart Green & Helmut, '72?
Page Views: 1,125
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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This is a fun, but run-out slab climb right of Silver Spoon. Start in same vicinity as Silver Spoon, clip its first bolt, then continue calmly up to the drilled angle above you. Don't fall before clipping the piton, or you will deck. The climbing isn't too hard through much of the run-out, but the move just below the pin will get your attention, considering what's below you. Continue up to the Silver Spoon anchor. The route is easily top-roped after leading Silver Spoon, and not recommended as a lead unless you are sure you won't blow it.


This route climbs the slab that Silver Spoon is located on and shares its first bolt and anchor. Descend by rappelling down the gully from a 2-pin anchor.


1 bolt, 1 drilled piton. 2 drilled pin anchor.

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By Stewart M. Green
Sep 22, 2008

I did the first ascent of this route in 1972 shortly after we did Silver Spoon. Started just right of Silver Spoon, placed a bad bad 1/4-inch bolt (still there but no hanger) and climbed the route, placing one piton. Never named it or placed any other gear in it. My second, a guy named Helmut, cleaned the piton.
By Larry C. Schubarth
From: colorado springs, colorado
Sep 23, 2008

The route that Gregg and I assumed was a first ascent was supposed to be the bottom half of what was later named "There Goes the Neighborhood", which after trashing my ankles flying off the lip, left it to friends to finish. Also, we started just to the left of the descent gully and followed a shallow groove/dihedral straight up to where I drilled the angle pin. Too bad so many top-ropers have erased/damaged that nice slab. Tooter-a device for snorting cocaine.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 24, 2008

Thanks for your input guys. I took the FA info from Mark's Soft Touch guide. Still a nice climb!

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