REI Community
Turtle Rock

Select Area...
Turtle Rock - East Face 
Turtle Rock - South Face 

Turtle Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 34.0104, -116.1666 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,136
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Randy on Mar 9, 2003


70° | 48°

70° | 50°

73° | 52°

76° | 54°

78° | 54°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jeff Gicklhorn leading Satanic Mechanic.


This very large formation lies south of the large Real Hidden Valley parking lot and immediately adjacent to (south of) the picnic areas. It features routes of the widest possible variance in grade of any formation in the Park (from 5.3 to 5.14a).

The Northeast face is somewhat broken and features a number of popular 1 and 2 pitch easy to moderate climbs. These include Bisk (5.4); Blistering (5.5); Wandering Tortoise (5.3); Easy Day (5.4) and Luminous Breast (5.8).

The South face lies in a sheltered corridor and is generally overhanging, with rock that ranges from good to poor. All routes are hard (5.12 to 5.14) sport routes. Satanic Mechanic (5.12a/b) and Desert Shield (5.13a) are the best known and most sought after routes. Integrity (5.14a) is the hardest route on this wall, involving a long traversing section.

Getting There 

To reach the Northeast and Southeast faces, walk left around the rock (Northeast face) and continue left, scrambling up boulders (Southeast face).

To reach the South face. walk around the far right side of the rock (right of the Pillars of Pain), then turn left at the So High Boulder and then cut slightly left through boulders to reach the corridor along the base of the South face. Routes are encountered in the following order Abandoned Project; Desert Shield; Integrity; Jesus Lives; and Santanic Mechanic.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.5 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Turtle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Turtle Rock:
Touche Away   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Turtle Rock - East Face
Sexy Sadye   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Turtle Rock - South Face
Satanic Mechanic   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Turtle Rock - South Face
Desert Shield   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Turtle Rock - South Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Turtle Rock

Featured Route For Turtle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: "Bisk". Photo by Blitzo.

Bisk 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Turtle Rock - East Face
From the Highest Ledge on the left side of the East Face, climb cracks and a corner to a ledge. Climb easy rock up and right to the top or a 5.7 crack, straight up....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Turtle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mixing it up and having fun on Turtle Rock
Mixing it up and having fun on Turtle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Turtle Rock by low light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/04...
Turtle Rock by low light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/04...
Rock Climbing Photo: Some random route at Turtle Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
Some random route at Turtle Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turtle Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
Turtle Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The "So High" boulder. Photo by Blitzo.
The "So High" boulder. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turtle Rock
BETA PHOTO: Turtle Rock

Comments on Turtle Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By joe-boo-boo
Mar 20, 2007
To get down walk to the climbers left, go down a few "levels" , then turn right and walk around to face the Hidden Valley parking. Once you see a pine look for a black streak. Don't cross the gully, go down the slab towards the prking area.
By high4and3fourths
From: reno, nv
Mar 25, 2017
No easy way to get down that I have found, my partner and I took an adventurous way off the backside, rapping a couple times and doing some sketchy down climbs. Only to find out there are rap rings facing north towards the Real Hidden Valley Parking lot. The rap rings will apparently just barely support a 60m rope so probably better off bringing a 70m, or find the common 5th class down solo on the east face.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About