Turtle Rock Rock Climbing
Jeff Gicklhorn leading Satanic Mechanic.
This very large formation lies south of the large Real Hidden Valley parking lot and immediately adjacent to (south of) the picnic areas. It features routes of the widest possible variance in grade of any formation in the Park (from 5.3 to 5.14a).
The Northeast face is somewhat broken and features a number of popular 1 and 2 pitch easy to moderate climbs. These include Bisk (5.4); Blistering (5.5); Wandering Tortoise (5.3); Easy Day (5.4) and Luminous Breast (5.8).
The South face lies in a sheltered corridor and is generally overhanging, with rock that ranges from good to poor. All routes are hard (5.12 to 5.14) sport routes. Satanic Mechanic
(5.12a/b) and Desert Shield
(5.13a) are the best known and most sought after routes. Integrity (5.14a) is the hardest route on this wall, involving a long traversing section.
To reach the Northeast and Southeast faces, walk left around the rock (Northeast face) and continue left, scrambling up boulders (Southeast face).
To reach the South face. walk around the far right side of the rock (right of the Pillars of Pain), then turn left at the So High Boulder and then cut slightly left through boulders to reach the corridor along the base of the South face. Routes are encountered in the following order Abandoned Project; Desert Shield; Integrity; Jesus Lives; and Santanic Mechanic.
Weather station 10.5 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Turtle Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Turtle Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Turtle Rock:
Featured Route For Turtle Rock
Sexy Sadye 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Turtle Rock - South Face
This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there....[more] Browse More Classics in California
Mixing it up and having fun on Turtle Rock
Turtle Rock by low light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/04...
Some random route at Turtle Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
Turtle Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
The "So High" boulder. Photo by Blitzo.
Mar 20, 2007
To get down walk to the climbers left, go down a few "levels" , then turn right and walk around to face the Hidden Valley parking. Once you see a pine look for a black streak. Don't cross the gully, go down the slab towards the prking area.
From: reno, nv
Mar 25, 2017
No easy way to get down that I have found, my partner and I took an adventurous way off the backside, rapping a couple times and doing some sketchy down climbs. Only to find out there are rap rings facing north towards the Real Hidden Valley Parking lot. The rap rings will apparently just barely support a 60m rope so probably better off bringing a 70m, or find the common 5th class down solo on the east face.