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Turtle Head 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Sam Shannon, 2005
Page Views: 1,705
Submitted By: Wes B. on Mar 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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BETA PHOTO: Turtle Head, 5.7 (60').


Climb past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor over slopey holds. The rock is crumbly in places, but this route should improve with more cleaning. Not recommended for the novice 5.7 leader.


This route starts 30' left (downhill) from Orange You Glad.


4 quickdraws and something for the 2 bolt anchor (with chains).

This climb shares an anchor with River Rats.

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By Wes B.
Mar 4, 2010

In the guidebook, it states that this route is a 5.7. We thought that it was at least two grades harder than the climb to the left (River Rats).
By SterlingArcher87
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 15, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree on the under-rating. Had an easier time on the 5.7 and the 5.9 Loyalist to the left.
By Dylan Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 19, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I'll voice my agreement about the grade. I personally think that River Rats climbs like a 5.6 (except for one 5.8ish move), Turtle Head seems more like a 5.9-, and Orange You Glad seems like 5.8-.
By Keith W
Sep 4, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

While it was fairly stiff for a 5.7, I didn't think there was any move harder than 5.8. It was steep, but the feet are all there. Still fun with thoughtful movement. Definitely a bit more heads up for a beginner leader.

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