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|Submitted By:||Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2001|
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By Sean O'Dell
Mar 6, 2002
|"Decend east into picnic area" doesn't quite do justice to the decent from the summit. The downclimb off the back of this rock is kind of a pain (5.4-ish in spots), so when doing a route that summits Turret Dome (such as the Guide's Route), make sure to keep the ol' climbing shoes on for the downclimb and allow appropriate extra time.|
By Anonymous Coward
May 28, 2002
|Does anybody know anything about the bolted lines on Turret Dome? They looked like they were put up fairly recently. Any info. would be much appreciated.|
By Larry Shaw
Jul 28, 2005
|They are in the database as [Unknown 1, Unknown 2,] and [Sloppy Shoes].|
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 11, 2006
|If the descent is wet, like it was for us today, you can go to a large tree on the North side of the dome (on your right facing Turret from the road). A 60 meter rope will barely get you all the way down past two ledges. The second ledge has a small tree to rap off if all you have is a 50 meter or you just want to be sure. If you do the full rap, angle the rope to the left to hit a mossy ledge. Going straight down won't work.|
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
|Descent Info: As of Sept 2010, there were two good slings on the large pine tree at the back and right side of the dome summit. I added a rappel ring to save wear and tear on the slings. It's a fun, easy rappel down two ledges. Much more enjoyable for me than downclimbing. It gets you down to where it's just an easy hike down the saddle. I hope everyone will leave the slings & rap ring in place for future climbers to descend on. Thanks!|
By Chip Loomis
Aug 15, 2011
I wanted to add a little clarity about the sport routes along the West Face of Turret Dome. However, there is a chance that this information may just muddy the water since it is only information that I gleamed from reading the other posts. After climbing there this weekend, we found that the directions to some of the older sport routes did not match since newer sport routes have been added. We found a total of 9 sport routes along the West Face and I will list them from Left to Right even though you will likely reach them the opposite way, right to left (sorry).
From L to R
1. Most Toppest: Farthest left and toppest, passed Upper Arch.
The next three routes are under the Upper Arch.
2. Junior Juiles Doinks a Digit.
4. Inner Space Arch.
The next routes are below 'The Tunnel', a couple hundred feet below Upper Arch. Specifically there are two that start on the same face just below Guide's Route.
5. Velvet Habel: I think, regardless it is a 50 foot 5.7 with 5-6 bolts. About 20 feet below the start of Guide's Route.
6. Unknown 5.7: Another short route with 5-6 bolts 20 feet below Velvet Habel.
The next three are very close to each other.
7. The Mexicanist.
8. Car Stud.
9. Sloppy Shoes: mixed.
A couple hundred feet below these routes are Schooldaze and Jaws.
By Kenny P
From: Woodland Park
Aug 25, 2013
As of August 2013, the route list for a portion of Turret is missing from this site; refer to the "Eleven Miles to Freedom" guidebook by Schmitt which can clear any confusion.
There are many great routes in the mid-5.10 range to make a great day's outing worth the 15min "approach"!
Moderate Routes not to be missed include:
"Smoke Pot... Check Knot", 5.10b**** (sport).
"Fashionably uninvited", 5.10c*** (trad).
"Canine Rescue", 5.10a**** (sport).
"Aid Route", 5.10a** (trad).
"Junior Jules Doinks a Digit", 5.10b*** (sport).
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 8, 2015
|There are many different options for the summit pitch of routes on the south face (i.e. Sunshine Slab to Guide's route). Many of these options can meander and lead to serious rope drag problems. Bring long slings or aim for one of the more direct variations such as Upper Lip. Another party I was climbing with today decided to bail after dealing with this problem and getting caught in a storm despite being so close to the summit. See my post on the lost and found forum here.|
By Jon Banks
From: Denver, CO
May 30, 2016
The descent from the summit has changed since the last comment. Now you can either rappel to the north from a fixed rope slung around a boulder near the summit or downclimb to the lower ledge (Class 4). These will bring you to a hard to spot boulder that is slung and has rap rings where you can do a short rappel to a lower ledge (if you downclimbed this section, it would be 5th Class). Walk off from here, then walk downhill to the east towards the picnic area.
The "large tree" mentioned above is either not there anymore or is dead and probably shouldn't be rapped from.