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Turning Point T 
Whole Slot of Trouble T 

Turning Point 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Don Spittler, David Babich, 1976 FFA: Eric Barrett, George Conner, 1978
Page Views: 663
Submitted By: Sam Prentice on Jun 14, 2010

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Description 

Stemming, finger cracks, stemming, laybacks, stemming, and jams. All thoughtful, mostly on gorgeous granite with golden glacial polish. Good stances below crux moves, which come more or less every roof, depending on your stylistic strengths.

Location 

Southwest face, right side, corner series of right facing broken roofs.

Protection 

Pro to 3.5", doubles of 0.5-2".

There is now a 2 bolt anchor with chains at the top of this route. I was able to rap easily with a 70 m rope, but not sure if a 60 m would make it.

Also, it looks like whoever put the chains up tried to grind down the welds on the links a bit, which left some very sharp burrs on the inside of the links. If you don't notice this and just haphazardly thread your rope through, you could easily shred your sheath. Be careful, or maybe bring a file.


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By Brandon R
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2015

There is now a 2 bolt anchor with chains at the top of this route. I was able to rap easily with a 70m rope, but not sure if a 60m would make it.

Also, it looks like whoever put the chains up tried to grind down the welds on the links a bit, which left some very sharp burrs on the inside of the links. If you don't notice this and just haphazardly thread your rope through, you could easily shred your sheath. Be careful, or maybe bring a file.

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