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Gorgon, The T 
Turn to Stone T 

Turn to Stone 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Sonia Buckley, Nov. 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: faces South, closed Feb. 1-Aug. 1
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for Turn To Stone.

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  • Description 

    Turn to Stone is a moderate climb with a few bulges for cruxes. Good protection is available most of the way if it is sought out by a skilled leader.

    This climb goes up and right diagonally through a crack system to the top of the rock on the South side of upper Medusa (see the attached photo).

    To descend, continue to the summit and off the back (scramble, or do a second pitch).

    Location 

    Midway up the South face of upper Medusa, a long roof guards each the bottom and the top, 10' and 90' off of the ground, respectively. The bottom roof is bypassed via a slot on the right. The upper roof is in 3 sections, with a crack system separating the middle section from the left or right. Turn To Stone ascends the cracks in the middle section.

    Protection 

    A light standard rack to 3".


    Photos of Turn to Stone Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sonia about to top out on Turn To Stone, following...
    Sonia about to top out on Turn To Stone, following...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sonia Buckley reaches the first bulge on Turn To S...
    Sonia Buckley reaches the first bulge on Turn To S...

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