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The Middle Ages
Routes Sorted
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Arbalest T 
Bertilak T 
Book of Wasps T 
Edge of an Age T 
Gnarnian Renaissance T 
Green Knight T 
Guy in the Gulley T 
Morning Star T 
Trebuchet T 
Turn the Page T 
Two Handed Flail T 
White Hawk T 

Turn the Page 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D.Mabe 2017
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jul 9, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Topo detail and belay locations

Description 

Start from the fixed semi-hanging belay stance of Edge of An Age. Climb the dihedral with splitter fingers in the right wall to an obvious horizontal break that turns the arete to the right. Follow mostly hand crack with several dubious flakes/blocks, and steepens to thin hands. Mantle to a ramp and finish on moderate hands/big hands corner with a steep finale cranking on more questionable blocks.

Location 

Locate the big fallen tree on the rim of the Tralfamadore Wall. On the far west side of the tree (at the root system) is the top of the route.The Page is just left of the Book of Wasp dihedral, climbing the right side of the prow of Edge of an Age.

Protection 

C4s #.3-3 with doubles of .4-1 should be more than enough. A C4#5 and .5 works for the top anchor, and the fixed belay consists of a pin and fixed nut. You can supplement with a stopper or finger sized cam.


Photos of Turn the Page Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Turn the Page (ORANGE) in relation to Edge of an A...
BETA PHOTO: Turn the Page (ORANGE) in relation to Edge of an A...

Comments on Turn the Page Add Comment
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 9, 2017

The top 30' or so most likely has been climbed before as a variation to Book of Wasps, though climbing from the fixed belay of EoA is probably new terrain. At any rate, it needed to be documented.

I definitely recommend the link-up with the Edge first pitch for a nice long lead.

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