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North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Eye For an Eye T 
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 
Just The Fad 
Panacea Roof S 
Remedy S 
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 
Walk The Line T 

Turn the Other Cheek 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dunbar Carpenter, Gokul Gopal, Doug Hemken
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Sep 1, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Doug, in the juggy section above the finger crack....

Description 

Despite the ugly looking moss, this line has some really nice moves, and just enough moss has rubbed off to reveal the crucial holds.

Start from either the left or the right, move up to the bottom of the groove - nice rail on the left. Work up into the dihedral. Either slab & mantel, or stem up to bomber hand jams. Shift left onto easy ledges. Head up just right of the pine tree to the steep finger crack. Find the jugs and head straight up to a good ledge.

On lead, we went left here and scrambled around to the summit. On TR, continue straight up: the final headwall is 5.9/5.10-ish, and could use a bolt for protection.

Location 

Between "Eye for an Eye" and "Buddha Bukstein"

Protection 

Nuts and cams. Doubles in the .75" to 1.5". 30' of webbing if setting a TR after the lead.


Photos of Turn the Other Cheek Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug, on the FA.  Photo by Teresa
BETA PHOTO: Doug, on the FA. Photo by Teresa
Rock Climbing Photo: Teresa
Teresa
Rock Climbing Photo: Dunbar at the finger crack
Dunbar at the finger crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Gokul
Gokul
Rock Climbing Photo: Dunbar at the crux
Dunbar at the crux

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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 1, 2014

Harder when it's damp!

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