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Narcolepsy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
No Doze T 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 

Turn Of The Sentry 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 251
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the Route....


Good Wide Climbing on the far west side of narcolepsy area. Nice cracks, mostly hands with some places a good deal wider. Belay is very awkward to set up. I continued to the top (climb east to attain narcolepsy anchors) and rapped down narcolepsy. This continuation is highly recommended to avoid the walk off to the west. A good crack for the leader trying to break into the grade. It felt a bit soft for a 5.8 to me.


This Route is on the far west end of the Narcolepsy butress and is just west of Dream Slate. You can walk off this route to the west or continue up and east to attain narcolepsy anchors.


Standard rack to #3 camalot. Either build trad anchor on the ledge/flake system at the top of the climb or continue up and east to attain narcolepsy anchors.

Photos of Turn Of The Sentry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: route without lines
BETA PHOTO: route without lines
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower wide section
Lower wide section
Rock Climbing Photo: turn of the sentry
turn of the sentry

Comments on Turn Of The Sentry Add Comment
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By Ryan Goslin
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Getting off this climb is interesting....dreamslate anchors are probably the best option if you climb 10a. head left when the climb ends and use two draws before the chains. Heading right to narcolepsy lead to some heinous rope drag(if you decide to protect the traverse) so i back tracked to dreamslate. Great route though with sweet jams and locks
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2015

Fun pitch but honestly the best moves are the transfer onto the last moves of Dream Slate. Probably better as a TR after leading Dream Slate. A 'walk off' looks like a 5.6 downclimb to the west.
By Mulch
From: SLC, Utah
May 18, 2017
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Fun route that protects really well with just nuts and hexes. The beginning is a really fun offwidth start then traverses out left then right to finger/hand cracks to the top. I traversed across the horizontal crack system at the top of the climb back to the wall directly behind the crag. I built an anchor in the cracks above a little indent/cave in the wall. Descended via suture fancy anchors.

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