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Turkey Tower

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Mr. Tambourine Man T 
South Face T 
Swiss Gentleman T 
Turkey's Crevasse, The T 

Turkey Tower Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.78982, -110.84132 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,118
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Mar 31, 2015
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Not Fluff and Drivel 

Turkey Tower is a 250' tower that has 2 summits with several routes located in a very picturesque setting north of Family Butte. The summits are separated by more than 20 feet, and so each has its own descent route. Phrases like "left tower" or "right tower" apply when viewed from the south. It is very likely that you will be the only people in the area, even with the popularity of the Swell with off road enthusiasts. We saw only 1 group pass the tower in 2 days during late March.
Eric Bjornstad's 1997 edition of Desert Rock contains some information about this tower, but after climbing there it's clear that some of the information is incorrect or sketchy. The routes listed are Mr. Tambourine Man, Swiss Gentleman, and South Face. I've added these routes here, but with edits to correct inaccuracies based upon onsite observations and my best guess about the intended information. My comments are enclosed in brackets[].

Where is it? 

Follow directions to Family Butte, but continue north on EM1024 to the tower. There is a very nice camping area just below and to the west of the tower, complete with a rim view of upper Red's Canyon and vistas all the way to Tomsich Butte.
Here's a map of the area. It's also marked on the Google version.
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of the interior southern Swell.
Map of the interior southern Swell.

Climbing Season

For the San Rafael Swell - South area.

Weather station 16.3 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Turkey Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Tambourine Man

Mr. Tambourine Man 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1  Utah : San Rafael Swell : ... : Turkey Tower
From Bjornstad's 1997 Desert Rock:P1: Climb a right-facing dihedral (5.9) to a short rotten band protected by a bolt, then climb a 5.11 left-facing dihedral to a 3-bolt hanging belay under a roof, 165' (50m). Garrett: "Great 5-star pitch."P2: Continue left through a roof, following a thin right-facing dihedral to a traverse, and right past 2 bolts to a belay ledge.P3: A short pitch which ascends an easy, then steep bolt ladder to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Turkey Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Swiss Gentleman after the rap - differe...
Looking up Swiss Gentleman after the rap - differe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nocturnal Turkey Tower
Nocturnal Turkey Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the rim lounge.
The view from the rim lounge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Swiss Gentleman after the rap.
Looking up Swiss Gentleman after the rap.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off Turkey Tower via Swiss Gentleman
Rapping off Turkey Tower via Swiss Gentleman
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Turkey Tower summits.  Family Towers c...
View of the Turkey Tower summits. Family Towers c...
Rock Climbing Photo: The rim lounge, with Mike and Doug.
The rim lounge, with Mike and Doug.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turkey Tower at sunset.
Turkey Tower at sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turkey Tower, from the southwest
Turkey Tower, from the southwest

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