REI Community
search
Advanced
Stepping Stones
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 
El Barrio 
El Gallito S 
Gravel Pilot T,TR 
Magie Noire S 
Pinche Guey S 
Québec Connection T,S 
Stepping Stones T 
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown Variation S 
Warlock Pinche S 
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 

Turkey Neck Direct 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Turkey Neck Direct 

This climb is one route left of El Gallito. Alternately, it's the fourth route in from the left. Climb past four bolts in the nice, white, calcified rock to the base of the big, stair-stepped roof. Three bolts and some tricky cruxes get you past the various lips. I put the fifth and sixth bolts close together so you wouldn't come slamming into the vert wall under the roof. Both are clippable on lead.

This had anchors up top but didn't seem to have seen any action -- thanks, whoever put the anchors in.

You **can** climb a bit right of the sixth bolt through that crux, onto the "guano block." Come back left to finish, on the "turkey neck." You can also go direct with good beta.

It is a good, pumpy route at the grade.

Protection 

7 bolts.


Comments on Turkey Neck Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
May 5, 2012

This is a good route, but it is harder than it looks from the bottom. The middle section lacks positive holds. At the first roof, I did go a little right to get a ticked sidepull to be able to stand. Getting through the last roof to the turkey neck is the crux. Unfortunately, my only beta is "use your 6'6" wingspan to reach past the terrible slopers and get your fingertips on the turkey neck."
By Mark Rolofson
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Excellent climb. The vertical face climbing past 2nd bolt to 4th bolt is 5.11b & quite fun. Then shake out under the roof before a tricky, powerful crux. The roof crux has sloping pinch holds, sidepulls, & a dyno to the turkey neck jug. Still tricky past the last bolt. Worth doing & repeating.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About