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Turkey Jerky 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Alex Duran
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 8,769
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (278)
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Kirk Miller doing it wild turkey style. Photo by J...

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  • Description 

    Pull the bouldery start to the first clip and reach left to a huge bucket for the second clip. Follow the seam on the left or cut right to layback cool side pulls, wild turkey style.

    Location 

    See the topo photo.

    Protection 

    11 bolts to chain & ring anchor.


    Photos of Turkey Jerky Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top.
    Near the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the bottom.
    Near the bottom.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Turkey Jerky.
    Turkey Jerky.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out at the top of Turkey Jerky, should hav...
    Hanging out at the top of Turkey Jerky, should hav...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Drew climbing the Turkey.
    Drew climbing the Turkey.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh coming out of the cave on Turkey Jerky.
    Josh coming out of the cave on Turkey Jerky.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Malarky setting up for the second clip on Tur...
    BETA PHOTO: Ryan Malarky setting up for the second clip on Tur...

    Comments on Turkey Jerky Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2016
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Sep 2, 2008
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    First half is 3 stars, second half maybe one. Terrific, leaning crack moves on the crux.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 15, 2008
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Solid 5.10 getting off the ground; have a spotter or stick-clip the first bolt. Pumpy and sustained crux comes just above. The top half of the route is easier, but still no gimme. Very fun climbing!
    By AOSR
    From: Wherever we park!
    Sep 17, 2008
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    I thought this was pretty hard. The seam has some sustained pumpy moves with a tricky crux clip. Nearly my favorite on the wall second only to Walking With a Ghost.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jun 10, 2009

    One of the two best 5.10s on the wall. Batso Canal gets my other vote.
    By Ben Cassedy
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 9, 2010
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Good variety of moves. Cool holds and moves in the crack section - kind of like the Perfect Ten at Table Mtn but goes in the opposite direction (I mean no disrespect with the comparison to Table Mtn). One of the best on the wall.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Aug 9, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Really cool route. Fun start with a lot of enjoyable climbing up high, including a section where the rock is almost like basalt. The rock quality is really good, especially considering that parts of the upper section look like they are big, detached pillars.
    By Count Chockula
    From: Littleton, CO
    Aug 19, 2011

    Love the start of this route. I climbed up the leaning crack left of the clips at the crux, and it is quite balancy through there making it tough to clip the bolt. Took me a couple minutes to find a good stance. I ended up laying back off my left foot and left hand on a good sidepull while flagging my right foot on the face to make the clip. This felt much more secure than using the holds above in the flaring crack. After that, it was cruiser climbing to the anchors on jugs.
    By Matt Powers
    From: Madison, VA
    Jun 23, 2013
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This thing is great. Crux was harder than I expected, but it's a ultra-fun route all the way to the chains. 30 feet of 5.10c or whatever, followed by 60 feet of 5.fun.
    By ssaxe
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 20, 2013
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    My new favorite route at Canal Zone. Second half is easy, but after the harder stuff below, it's a nice cool down. Personally thought the crux was just getting to the first bolt, but it's low (would be a short bouldering problem) with a flat landing. Probably because I just suck at bouldering.
    By Keaton Soto-Olson 1
    From: Breckenridge, CO
    Jun 21, 2015

    The best 10 at the Canal Zone in my opinion. Getting off the ground is tough, but don't let the looks scare you off. Clipping was from a good stance. Rewarded by some cruiser climbing above, don't miss this one!
    By Keaton Soto-Olson 1
    From: Breckenridge, CO
    Jun 21, 2015

    Also if you're the guy who left a draw up on this yesterday, message me. I have it!
    By tk1085
    Dec 4, 2015
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Climbed this today. Fun route. The bottom is a little bouldery but not hard. Good stance to clip. Up through the crack was def the crux for me. Very balancy on what felt like not so great hands or feet. (I do have to stress my fingers were little blocks of ice at this point, and I'm also not the best at cracks.) Fun climbing, although maybe a touch easier with warm hands. Lol, that's what I'm telling myself. Oh also take 13 draws like the book tells you to, not 12 like me. I had to skip a bolt higher up. Adds more spice right?
    By Tombo
    From: Boulder
    Aug 7, 2016

    I lead Beasto prior to toproping this route and am not sure what to think. If Beasto is 10a, Turkey Jerky is 11a at least for me. I fell twice trying to climb straight up to the first bolt. This may have something to do with reach (my ape index is 5'3.5") and finally climbed in from the right. The next crux up the thin crack also seemed way harder than anything on Beasto, technical and thin. Very fun first half. I'm wondering how other people compare the two routes and if the straight up start is what everyone does.

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