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Turkey in the Straw T 
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Turkey in the Straw 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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There are sections of good climbing on the route, but overall it is a waste of opportunity, being that there are so many GOOD routes around. The crux isn't the climbing, it's fighting with vegetation and dirt, some while run out.

Climb up the right hand edge of a big slab to the higher of to leftward-rising ramp systems. Place a small, narrow cam in an undercling, and then traverse up and left (R) to gain a flaring crack on the left side of the same slab. This crack is mostly full of plants and dirt and offers little in terms of protection. Ge left of it to good holds on an arete and climb up past the dirt and salad (5.7, R) and past a shrub into a good crack. Climb the crack (hand sized gear) past a few bushes and up to a massive chockstone (crux, 5.8) and onto the top. Belay from a gear anchor.

To descend, walk East to a fixed-slings rap and go off SE to the ground, 90'.


The route starts on the right-hand edge of a long slab below a 6' roof that is 50' wide. It is just left of 'Easy Offwidth.' It climbs features past a low ramp and to a higher ramp. It traverses the ramp leftward to a junky crack and seam that rises up into a Left-facing corner just right of Double Trouble, which is likely a much better climb.


A rack from tips to 4" - no doubles needed, as not much pro is offered. Take long slings though.

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