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Turkey Foot Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Marquardt
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 11,682
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001

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Turkey Foot Variation, Kevin Gillest climber.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route is located on the Sunshine Wall's South Face. This wall is the formation to the left of Cynical Pinnacle when looking from the road. This route is about halfway in the middle of the wide wall. There are three cracks that lead into one, easiest from right to left. If you do the middle, or left route, some RPs will be nice to have. A little bit after the cracks converge, a fist size crack goes up another pitch, or the first two can be combined. A 5.8 goes the rest of the way, or rap from here.


A couple extra 3, or 3.5 cams for the fist crack.

Per Lisa Montgomery: a 2-bolt anchor (stainless 1/2" by 4" 5-piece & stainless hangers) with rap rings was installed at the top of pitch 2.

Photos of Turkey Foot Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes! you made it.
Yes! you made it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stellar day on Turkey Foot.
Stellar day on Turkey Foot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher up.
Higher up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wait a minute... I thought the crack was the boss ...
Wait a minute... I thought the crack was the boss ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the cruxy pod, after taking a rest on th...
Just past the cruxy pod, after taking a rest on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate on the lead.
Nate on the lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the lead.
Me on the lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher up.
Higher up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alison Conrad #3.
Alison Conrad #3.
Rock Climbing Photo: All three start options for Turkey Foot.   Easiest...
BETA PHOTO: All three start options for Turkey Foot. Easiest...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alison Conrad, 01/17/09.
Alison Conrad, 01/17/09.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alison Conrad #2.
Alison Conrad #2.
Rock Climbing Photo: I climbed this awesome route yesterday.  Make sure...
I climbed this awesome route yesterday. Make sure...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 has new anchors.
Pitch 2 has new anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the first pitch.
Climbers on the first pitch.

Comments on Turkey Foot Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2016
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2005

I saw a guy on this today and he had to downclimb the last pitch because the anchors are gone. There are a lot of rockfall scars on the face below the climb.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 21, 2005

Two weeks ago when doing this climb I found that the stopper anchor at the end of the second pitch was gone, leaving only a slung block tat nest. With some investigation we found that 4 LARGE blocks were just perched there, with the anchors literally sitting on a block with only a small block holding them down. The scary thing is that people have been rapping from here for years! We trundeled the blocks but did not replace the anchor as we discovered an AMAZING belay ( comfy bivy for 1) 20 feet higher than the old anchor and 60m from the ground. A second bolted anchor at this stance would be a vast improvement over the old anchor situation, but we were hoping to contact the FA party before doing anything. It is still possible to continue to the top and walk off the back side if you are in the mood for a grovelfest.
By Andy Donson
Nov 22, 2005

Hi Kevin, I remember thinking those blocks were pretty dubious last time I rapped off them. Maybe they were sufficient for the time being - but i think their days were numbered. Your solution sounds good.

In reply to "Another Estes Park Drunk" - maybe if you sobered up sometime you would know that Kevin has replaced virtually every crappy bolt in the Cathedral Spires over the last few years, and deserves a huge round of applause (and an apology from you).
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 22, 2005

I have to agree with Andy. Kevin replaced all the bolts on Childhood's End (nearly sixty) single-handedly, I believe. Seems like he's been around plenty long enough to size up what needs to be fixed. Kevin: your efforts are appreciated. AED: fark off.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 22, 2005

Mr. Estes Drunk, when was the last time you climbed Turkey Foot Crack? If you have climbed it and rappelled off the second pitch then you used up one of your 9 lives unknowingly. I rappelled off that block several times, but the first time I continued to the top and had to step on the block I knew it could end up being someones last rappel. I hate to pull off blocks and scar the rock, but as I climb in the Spires quite often I feel an obligation to try to keep the place relatively safe. I have replaced several hundred coffin nails in the Platte, but I have only added 2 anchors to existing climbs, both of which were where the existing sling anchor was using a deteriorating block . The route currently has a bolted anchor after the first pitch, why not after the second as well? It seems to me that a camo ring anchor is a lot lower impact than a nest of slings around some stoppers. If anyone has information on how to reach the FA party ( Larry Marquardt and Chris Reveley) I would love to get their opinion on the matter. Thanks.
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Feb 16, 2006

On Monday, Feb. 13 I installed a temporary, but good anchor at the top of p2. I did not see the new anchor, which was purported to be 20 ft. higher than the old one (maybe didn't look in the right place). Anyway, my anchor is at about the same height as the old one, but to the right. It is slung around good, attached rock. There was another anchor a little lower and further to the right of my anchor. We removed it as it was a little more than sketchy. Feel free to bring one more 8-10 ft piece of webbing or cord to supplement the other 2.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 16, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

From the anchor Ben and I installed, you can rap 175' to the ground with two 60m ropes. You could also do two raps with one 60m rope, using the bolt anchor atop the first pitch for the second rap.

A bolted rap anchor atop the second pitch would be a welcome addition, if the first ascent party agrees.
By Mike Soucy
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 4, 2007

In relation to starting this thing-
I just did the lefthand start the other day and found the finger crack fun, but it felt super contrived up top, where you were stemming over to this awesome hand crack whilst scumming a couple of digits into an extremely painful finger crack (waaaah). The opening moves are really cool passing the little bush, but don't ignore the hand crack, cause it feels real good.
Also, for the upper part, 3x #3 Camalots, one new #4/old #3.5 and a couple of #2s worked great for me. Tape is nice.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 3, 2008

I lead the far right crack with some rather poor shoes for edging. This compelled me to only use feet in the crack as it began to arch to the left, which was rather strenuous as it weights the hands more. So leave the crummy shoes at home and enjoy yourself.
By Greg D
From: Here
Feb 8, 2009

Sling anchor atop pitch 2 was pretty solid and in good shape as of Feb 09. It is up and right after the hand crack ends.
By Larry Marquardt
Aug 28, 2009

This was first ascent was soloed by me, as Jim Michael and Chris Reveley can attest. Date uncertain.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Aug 28, 2009

Wow Larry, that's impressive. The short little thin crack above the amazing "bivy" ledge must have been exciting, I guess it is called the third pitch.
By Larry Marquardt
Aug 28, 2009

Thanks Kevin. I've sent a PM regarding the bolts.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

P1 anchor at 120' could probably use some fresh cord/webbing as of 9/2015. We cut away 3 strands that were reduced to fuzz or torn/chewwed over 1/2 way through, then checked the rest, which is aging. Didn't have a piece long enough to go around the rock with us, however.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2015

Excellent route to a questionable rap anchor. I also vote to put a nice camo bolt anchor atop this route to save a life or two at some point in the future, if the FAs allow.
By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Nov 20, 2015

A 2-bolt anchor with rap rings was installed at the top of pitch 2. Bolts are stainless 1/2" by 4" 5-piece. Stainless hangers.
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Oct 1, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do not underestimate this climb. I think most people just do the middle "toe", which is supposedly 5.9. Just before it merges with the right crack, it gets steep and thin. A few sequency and tricky moves are needed before getting a hand jam in the right crack at the merge. Pro is not so great in this section either. It can be tempting to move or stem over to the wide right crack, but that just throws you off balance; not recommended. I would call it 5.10a.

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