This is the larger, left hand slab at the Pet Slabs. It contains several fun friction routes. The left side is very moderate and lower angle, but the right side is quite steep. Having been protected under a layer of thick moss, the rock here is mostly lichen-free and amazingly grippy leading to excellent friction, which is good considering the noticeable absence of holds. Because of the blankness of the rock, actual lines are difficult to follow. Routes listed are mere suggestions.
Most of the routes can be top-roped from a small tree right at the top of the slab. If it seems this slab is getting use, I'll add anchors.
This is the first slab visible from the clearing with the fire ring as you approach the Pet Slabs from Redrock main area.
Climbing Season For the Cape Ann area.
Weather station 6.1 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Turk Face
Grinch Breath 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Massachusetts
: Cape Ann
: ... : Turk Face
This is a marvelously thin line and a real celebration of the synergy between textured rock and sticky rubber. The only true hand hold is at the top. It is also still a bit dirty and could use a little love. This climbs the steep section just right of Pale Blue Eyes and just left of an obvious uncleaned mossy area. Smear up the steep section aiming for an small hand hold near the top. About two thirds of the way up, you will meet slight, right-facing flake: the crux is below thi...[more] Browse More Classics in Massachusetts