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Turf War 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Galen Vansant & Ryan Sims
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Terramariner on Jul 15, 2016

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Fun and contrived climb linking up as many independent features to connect up with the leaning flake left of CCC. Start by climbing any of the crisscrossing cracks between TAFR and TVG to the underside of the large flake. Continue up and join TAFR for the overlap and the start of the hand crack. Traverse left bear hugging the blunt arête with feet on a slabby rail. Head up CCC and place a high piece before committing to the left leaning flake. Continue straight up through overlap and horizontal rail to a bolt and finish up and right on the slab to a 2 bolt anchor (70m rope to rap or toprope other cracks on the face).


Single Rack, slings, 1 bolt


Start in crisscrossing cracks between TAFR and TVG.


Single Rack, slings

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By Mat Brunton
Jul 23, 2016

The rock is quality, but still dirty and will improve greatly with traffic. The route is contrived, but fun, with the traverse over the blunt arete seeming to be the crux.

This is a great, moderate crag and the approach "trail" and routes will improve with traffic.

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