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Jasper Peak
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Snow Leopard 
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Turf War Couloir 
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Turf War Couloir 

M4

   
Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 900', Grade III
Original: M4 Steep Snow [details]
FA: J. Fox(?), 10/22/2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: J. Fox on Oct 24, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Looking south down the descent. There are several...

Description 

This route is located at the end of the NE ridge of Jasper Peak. From the 4th of July trailhead and just below Skywalker Couloir on South Arapaho, look west to the east-facing buttress coming off the NE ridge and you will see two thin snow routes.

I climbed the right fork/couloir and took the left branch of this line at the top putting me just below the summit.

I soloed the route and in an October ascent and encountered good snow, bad snow, and moderate mixed climbing through rock bands to avoid the bad snow. In spring, this may be an all-snow route. In fall, expect to climb rock as well. The crux for me was the rock bands about mid-route and the thin snow high in the left branch near the top.

I named this route "Turf War" due to the fact that when I climbed it, I encountered mixed climbing on snow, ice, s'nice, rock, etc. It was a fight all the way to the top. Steep thin snow over rock in the last 200' or so.

*If anyone knows whether or not this route has already had an ascent or not, let me know and I'll change those details.

Location 

East face of the NE Ridge of Jasper Peak, Indian Peaks. From the 4th of July TH, hike up about two miles(?) to just below or in line with Skywalker Couloir. Descend into the basin and bushwhack through trees past some small ponds. A stream crossing will be necessary as well. Head directly for the apron of snow below the route.

Protection 

I soloed the route, so I have no input on pro, but a standard alpine rack would probably suffice. No fixed gear was found on the route.


Photos of Turf War Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down mid-way up the upper left branch of T...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down mid-way up the upper left branch of T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top!  Exit in sight.
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the top! Exit in sight.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of left branch up high on the route.
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of left branch up high on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through the upper left branch of Turf War.
BETA PHOTO: Midway through the upper left branch of Turf War.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second constriction high in the main couloir just ...
BETA PHOTO: Second constriction high in the main couloir just ...
Rock Climbing Photo: I climbed up the rock/snow band on the right to av...
BETA PHOTO: I climbed up the rock/snow band on the right to av...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up route from below a mixed step.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up route from below a mixed step.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route and my descent.
BETA PHOTO: Route and my descent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turf War is the right hand snow line in this photo...
BETA PHOTO: Turf War is the right hand snow line in this photo...

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