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Cynical Pinnacle
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Buffaloes in Space T 
Center Route T 
Center Route P3 Variation T 
Class Act S 
CMC Route T 
Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely) S 
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 
Hand Job Direct T 
Monkey in the Forest T 
Off-width Route TR 
Rap Crack T 
Rising Crescendo T 
Rubber Ducky T 
Turf Spreader T 
Twist O' Flex T 
Wunsch's Dihedral T 

Turf Spreader 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Reveley or Tom Fender and Larry Dalke, circa 1973
Fixed Hardware: 4 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 5,761
Submitted By: Tamas on Aug 17, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


To the right of the Center Route on the Cynical Pinnacle is a beautiful, long, hand-sized crack that heads straight up the slab. This is the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader.

P1. You can begin at the bottom of the gully, looking up 40 feet or so into a no-pro chimney, which Hubbel rates 5.8. We chose pro, and headed around the corner to the right, making our first pitch P1 of the Great Chimney. You can even avoid the chimney by heading up the face (5.8ish), to the bolted anchors.

P2 heads up the 11b roof, which begins with hands and moves smaller and smaller until you get around the corner and discover you'll need some bigger pro. Because of the nature of the roof, we set an anchor as soon as possible around the corner to reduce rope drag.

P3 is the long, 5.8, hand crack. You can break this up into 2 pitches or stretch out the rope. At the top are assorted slings, backed up with a hex.

You can continue up or rap from here.

I'd bring webbing and biners on this route to back up existing anchors. 2 ropes will get you down: one 200' rap down the face from the top of P3; one 100' back to the gully.

P1 just gets you there. P2 and 3 are fantastic.


Standard rack to #4 Camalot; doubles in hand sizes for the 5.8 crack.

Photos of Turf Spreader Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the upper part of the 3rd pitch.
On the upper part of the 3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the 3rd pitch.
Starting the 3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great chimney start (only good pro is at the level...
BETA PHOTO: Great chimney start (only good pro is at the level...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alternate start (around the corner to the right wi...
BETA PHOTO: Alternate start (around the corner to the right wi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great chimney start.
BETA PHOTO: Great chimney start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark B leading the horizontal. Beware of the loose...
Mark B leading the horizontal. Beware of the loose...

Comments on Turf Spreader Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Kennedy
Oct 7, 2003

Instead of heading around the corner to the offwidth you can also take the thin left angling crack up to the arete and a beautiful well protected 5.11 face.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 17, 2003

If finishing on Tough Turf I recommend traversing around to the right shoulder at the end of the 3rd pitch to set up a belay.
By Jer Collins
Dec 7, 2003

Gear Alert
Climbed this today. Used Sharpend's guidebook. At the end of the beautiful 3rd pitch handcrack (think high Sierras), we followed the obvious, horizontal crack leading left to the 3rd Belay on Center Route. Rated 10-something, we found it pretty straightforward with the last 15 feet to the dihedral being pretty sustained and exciting.

From here, we headed up the left side 10+ (actually like 9+) handcrack, turned the corner, and finished up the final right-facing dihedral of Wunsch's. Then finally up the bolt ladder. The guidebook said nothing of heading right.

The way we did it, it was 6 pitches and each one was fantastic.

Some thoughts:

-Don't place anything in the 1st pitch chimney until about to exit out the roof. There are two exiting skylights. I'm small...and unless you are much smaller than me, you Will-Not-Fit.

-After turning the roof, belay on small stuff just 3 feet above, or suffer the consequences. Above the roof, it's wide for a bit. We had a #3, 3.5 and 4 Camalot. This seemed fine.

-The pin midway on the traverse wiggled back and forth. It was fine, but just keep an eye on it.

[oops...meant to say - After the crux (2nd pitch) roof, stop to belay right above, not the chimney pitch.]

[Also, here is a report:]

By pete cogan
Aug 28, 2004

The fixed gear and all the webbing are gone at the top of P3, the 5.8 crack. There's a new bolt up there with a rap ring, and we added some webbing/link so you have two pieces to rap from.

Great climbing.
By James R. Arnold
Nov 23, 2007

The upper part of this route sounds great! The 11b corner is probably a little much for us - how easy would it be to aid it?
By slim
Nov 27, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c


Quick easy aid. Probably be worth it, as it is only 10 feet of hard climbing that links up a good chunk of easier, excellent climbing.
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Sep 20, 2013

After climbing the Center Route, it is possible to rap in and climb the third pitch of Turf Spreader. Adds a 4th pitch of crack climbing to your day!
By michalm
Nov 17, 2015

A few notes: The first pitch chimney has no pro but has really fun, clean climbing for 40-50 feet until pulling over the chockstones, after which there is some easy and somewhat loose 3rd to 4th class before the roof pitch. The roof pitch surprised me with exactly where the crux was, but I won't spoil the surprise for you. The 3rd pitch has bolted rap anchors at the top. You can swing over to the rap anchors next to Center Route with a little creativity. It looks like it is significantly more than 200 feet back down to the top of the 1st pitch of the Great Chimney, so I didn't try this option.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 28, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

There are now two bolts at the top of the 3rd pitch 5.8 crack. No need to carry any webbing.

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