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Tupelo Chain Sex 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Cam Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Feb 7, 2015

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Past the cruxiness and into the fun stuff. Februar...

Description 

Typically avoided because of the super funky chain-links-used-as-bolt-hangers setup and a lack of a real anchor, the route is surprisingly fun.
Pull onto the rock and make tricky moves to the second clip. Surprisingly sneaky moves get you up to the third bolt before another slabby crux past the fifth bolt. Pretty sweet holes and huecos lead to the seventh bolt and one more tricky bulge move before clipping two new (February 2015) bolts to the anchor at the top of the formation.

For a couple decades a carabiner on the last (seventh) bolt served as the anchor with a single carabiner on it. Cam says they topped it out and didn't install an anchor, thus the current single bolt anchor setup. In February 2015 Jason added two bolts and an anchor to extend the climb and make for a safer lowering experience.

Location 

On the small buttress just east of the Leaning Tower proper. It's left of the Easy Bake Alcove proper. Chain-link hangers make the route easy to spot.

Protection 

Nine bolts. The first seven bolts are equipped with chain links for hangers.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Tueplo with added two bolt finish on headwall to r...
Tueplo with added two bolt finish on headwall to r...

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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 10, 2015

This past weekend I extended the route by two bolts and installed a two bolt anchor. The left chain on the anchor could use one more screw link to orient the carabiner properly to avoid rope twisting (I'll take a link next time I go up there.)
I hoped to put real hangers on the bolts but the bolts were much too big for my standard hole hangers. It may require drilling new holes, unfortunately.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Dec 9, 2016

Cam and Paul Fehlau, 1990

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