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Tunnel Vision 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 2,154
Submitted By: Ted Lanzano on Jan 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Patrick Burns on Tunnel Vision. (Photo: Andrea Bru...

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  • Description 

    Tunnel Vision climbs the steep overhang just uphill from the tracks. Begin by pulling through a hard V7/8 boulder problem, continue through some big moves on good holds (not great rests though), and finish with crimpy 12c climbing to the chains. To get through the boulder problem at the beginning, you’ll need to make a big reach with your right hand to a weird undercling/gaston (careful with the right shoulder). The climb is only about 40 feet long, but it is sustained and pumpy at the top.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


    Photos of Tunnel Vision Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tunnel Vision, 13b.
    Tunnel Vision, 13b.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crimping on the top of Tunnel Vision.
    Crimping on the top of Tunnel Vision.

    Comments on Tunnel Vision Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Nov 3, 2009

    My recollection is that this route was chipped down low.
    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Glenwood Springs, CO
    Nov 3, 2009

    A little glue, but no chipping Pedro.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Nov 3, 2009

    Thanks Hank. I remember a quite positive edge/pocket that looked suspicious but if you know otherwise, that's fine with me.
    By Jonathan Siegrist
    From: his truck
    Nov 27, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Okay fine.. this route is not the complete turd that it appears to be. Actually kinda good.
    By Elliott Bates
    Feb 2, 2010
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    I agree with J-Star. This route climbs much better than it looks, and has some really cool holds. The shouldery move isn't so bad-especially for taller folks. Overall- it's worth doing.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 29, 2010
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Crux is hard if you're short. More like V8/9....
    By Kevin Meyers
    Oct 21, 2012

    I enjoyed this route very much. It has been quite a while, but if I remember correctly, you can go up with your left at the crux and do a core strength/ body tension thing if the right arm gaston move troubles you. I think it is height-dependent though. I'm 5.11&1/2, my friend is a little shorter and couldn't do it that way but got a shoulder injury on the right arm gaston.
    By Mason Caiby
    Jan 24, 2015

    The flake for that big move is gonna break.... Says height-dependent, but at 5'9", it still feels pretty soft for 13b.
    By Elliott Bates
    Jan 2, 2016
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    I was told that the flake did in fact break off...and shattered into a million pieces. No chance of gluing it back on. RIP, Tunnel Vision.

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