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Routes in Tuna and Chips Wall
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Albacore Man T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Chips Ahoy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chips and Salsa T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Dolphin Safe T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Fishbreath T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mac and Tuna S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Minnow, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Hay Sequia S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Reverse Osmosis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sierra Club Tower TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tuna and Chips T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Tuna Cookies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Waterstreak S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m) |
| FA: | B. Conz, Jim "Frodo" Lybarger |
| Page Views: | 3,744 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 27, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This climb is a fun climb. While in the book as 2 pitches, I did not find the belay to be inspiring and was climbing with a novice at the time, so I chose to run to the top, to near the end of my 70M rope. This worked well, and he didn't mind the potential rope stretch so much as the thought of hanging on small gear in soft stone.
From the crack which splits the center of the Tuna and Chips wall ('Tuna Cookies', 5.7) walk up and left around some shrubs for 7 meters to reach a starting point on the left side of the face with good holds... and a few bolts. Climb more or less straight up on small edges and crimps past 3 bolts to a small crack, then up and onward again to the rounded top of the wall. The belay up top is reasonably secure, but may require (if memory serves) a long cordalette or webbing if you want to sit up at the edge to watch your second.
This is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it. For the second, be aware of rope stretch potential, but really the climbing is straightforward and simple. Both my beginner friend and I enjoyed it.
Edit to add: Another user comments on the belay opportunity:
"After the last bolt it's about 20 feet to a good cam placement. Above this there is an obvious finger crack splitting the upper slab. Belay here on good medium cams and stoppers. Belay is good but semi-hanging. Stone is surprisingly good for the belay."
Whilst another adds:
"I found the belay crack very uninspiring or solid... I was pulling out loose rock around and from in the crack, and you need a lot of small gear to make it work. Ended up running the pitch together."
So it appears that YMMV.
From the crack which splits the center of the Tuna and Chips wall ('Tuna Cookies', 5.7) walk up and left around some shrubs for 7 meters to reach a starting point on the left side of the face with good holds... and a few bolts. Climb more or less straight up on small edges and crimps past 3 bolts to a small crack, then up and onward again to the rounded top of the wall. The belay up top is reasonably secure, but may require (if memory serves) a long cordalette or webbing if you want to sit up at the edge to watch your second.
This is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it. For the second, be aware of rope stretch potential, but really the climbing is straightforward and simple. Both my beginner friend and I enjoyed it.
Edit to add: Another user comments on the belay opportunity:
"After the last bolt it's about 20 feet to a good cam placement. Above this there is an obvious finger crack splitting the upper slab. Belay here on good medium cams and stoppers. Belay is good but semi-hanging. Stone is surprisingly good for the belay."
Whilst another adds:
"I found the belay crack very uninspiring or solid... I was pulling out loose rock around and from in the crack, and you need a lot of small gear to make it work. Ended up running the pitch together."
So it appears that YMMV.
8 Comments