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Tuna and Chips Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albacore Man T,S 
Chips Ahoy T 
Chips and Salsa T 
Dolphin Safe T,S 
Fishbreath T 
Minnow, The TR 
Sierra Club Tower TR 
Tuna and Chips T 
Tuna Cookies T 
Waterstreak T,TR 

Tuna and Chips 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: B. Conz,
Page Views: 1,574
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the parking Lot

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is a fun climb. While in the book as 2 pitches, I did not find the belay to be inspiring and was climbing with a novice at the time, so I chose to run to the top, to near the end of my 70M rope. This worked well, and he didn't mind the potential rope stretch so much as the thought of hanging on small gear in soft stone.

From the crack which splits the center of the Tuna and Chips wall ('Tuna Cookies', 5.7) walk up and left around some shrubs for 7 meters to reach a starting point on the left side of the face with good holds... and a few bolts. Climb more or less straight up on small edges and crimps past 3 bolts to a small crack, then up and onward again to the rounded top of the wall. The belay up top is reasonably secure, but may require (if memory serves) a long cordalette or webbing if you want to sit up at the edge to watch your second.

This is a fun line and will provide good climbing for a party competent to lead it. For the second, be aware of rope stretch potential, but really the climbing is straightforward and simple. Both my beginner friend and I enjoyed it.

Protection 

A few draws and a standard light rack.


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By TedV
From: Lost Wages
Dec 30, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

It is a fun route/ Be aware that there are only 3 bolts on the first 120 feet. The belay station requires gear and is on a small black ledge where the crack zags left and up again. It took good gear and was a good anchor.
It is a long way between bolts, but I did find some flakes to sling inbetween the second and third bolts and between the third bolt and where I set up my anchor.
By Jay Holland
From: Heath , Texas
Dec 31, 2009

Very fun route on a cool winter day. This wall get's good sun! Very run out..........can be sketchy if not sure of your ability. Holds are very possitve and good friction! My opinion is an actual 5.7 not soft some here can be.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

After the last bolt it's about 20 feet to a good cam placement. Above this there is an obvious finger crack splitting the upper slab. Belay here on good medium cams and stoppers. Belay is good but semi-hanging. Stone is surprisingly good for the belay- no need to worry.

2nd pitch climbs the finger crack for about 25 feet and then fades out. Move up over easy terrain to a 2-bolt anchor on top of a block. Webbing and a locker were there on 2/15/2011. If you wanted to avoid the walk off, you could rap with 2 ropes back to the anchor of Dolphin Safe and then another rap to the ground.
By AlexandreK
Mar 16, 2014

I did this the other day, and honestly maybe I am not as familiar with Red Rocks rock but I found the belay crack very uninspiring or solid. I also broke 2 holds while climbing, somehow didn't fall. I was pulling out loose rock around and from in the crack, and you need a lot of small gear to make it work. Ended up running the pitch together, and there really isn't a lot of pro on this thing. I would call it R/X, depending on how many small cams you own and your opinion on the possible 35ft groundfall before the first bolt or the higher falls later where you trusting questionable rock.