Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Tom Lane & Ben Brooke
Page Views: 935 total · 7/month
Shared By: Benjamin Brooke on Jul 13, 2012
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb vertical crack using hand and fist jams (crux) to a ramp in a right facing corner. Continue up the crack pulling into and larger right facing corner with more fist jams. (V1) Continue up through three stacked teeth and make an akward move out of the huge corner and into a chimney. Hand jams to the top.

V1 - Move right at a crack below the stacked teeth. Follow to a horizontal and climb to a stance on top of a huge fang flake. Follow the handcrack moving up and right to the anchors of Felonious Mopery. 5.7 G

Location Suggest change

Start at the base of vertical crack that runs directly to the top of the cliff. The crack climbs the huge right facing corner which pretty hard to miss. After topping out walk uphill 20 ft to find solid trees to anchor and belay from. It is now possible to use the gear in the crack at the top with a less than perfect tree to set up a top anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack plus big gear. An extra BD #3 and a BD #4 (or equivilant hex) are useful as the crack is very wide in spots.

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