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Tummy Gummy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Turner (1958)
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: Luc-514 on Sep 25, 2013

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Description 

Pitch 1 Same as Traversée except you keep going straight (climbers right) to a ledge with trees.

Pitch 2 Go up to dihedrals to a large ledge and go up a small bump.

Pitch 3 Go left 10m and head up the wall to the trees and bolts.

Please find someone that has done this climb before to show you the way...

The route's name comes from:
"I wish I were a little worm
With bristles on my tummy,
I'd climb into a honey pot
And get my tummy gummy,
Then I'd climb all over you
And get your tummy gummy too!"

Location 

look for a ledge a couple meters off the ground with bushes on it.

Protection 

Standard rack.
Most belays are bolted.


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By James.B
Jul 28, 2017

Guidebook has this as a 4 pitch climb, somehow we did it as 5 pitches by traversing too far left on pitch 3 and ending at bolted anchors for another climb then belaying there before climbing back a bit (though this probably made rope drag easier in the end). The description here is missing the last pitch. Pitch 4: From the (bolted) belay at the top of the 3rd pitch, head upwards over slabby 5.3ish terrain to a large block at the base of a small vertical section leading to a ledge. On top of this ledge is a bolted anchor (last move is exciting and very Rish).

FWIW, all belays are bolted except that at the top of the second pitch which takes gear around C4 0.3 size

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