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Moss Island
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YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: James Otey on Aug 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Tumbleweed, immediately left of Mother's Day Mayhe...


A bit left of the duck ramp and obvious face of Jeff Loves Eileen lies a right angling hand crack with copious jugs. No distinct crux, just good old low angle monkeying.


Just right of Sit on It and left of the duck ramp


Standard rack

Photos of Tumbleweed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo photo for Tumble Weed.
BETA PHOTO: Topo photo for Tumble Weed.

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By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Not sure I'd call it low angle. The crux is the first 15 feet off the ground. That section is overhanging (bulgy). On lead it's a pumpy 5.4...which shouldn't happen on a 5.4. The lower ledges/foot holds are also polished, so stances are tough. IMHO, much harder than Jeff Loves Eileen or anything on the Goat Crack Wall. On top rope, I'm certain you can book through the overhanging section without even noticing it but the low crux means you either place gear or solo it. Definitely a hard 5.4 lead despite the great gear (G).
By Bruce Monroe
Jul 18, 2014

There is now a bolt anchor at the top of this climb.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Jun 28, 2016

Breezey on toprope, but on lead it is fairly committing for how short it is and how easy the rating is. I guess we can call it a test piece?
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 28, 2016

This is an ideal first trad lead because you can get good gear every couple feet, the foot holds are solid, and the topout is secure.

Great to hear it got bolted anchors. Hopefully that will reduce the vegetation damage that had been occurring over the years. Definitely a classic of the area!
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Jul 10, 2016

James- a quick look at your climbing ability gives me a good idea why it seems so easy for you (btw, friggin amazing), but as someone who did this as one of their early trad leads, those were my honest impressions, thank you so much for calling myself and my ability out. It is a secure climb, but I haven't been on a boulder, in a gym, on a sport climb or on anything overhung for more than 10ft on lead for months before I led this.

That being said, I do agree with you. It would be a good first lead... A 5.4 for a 5.10 climber I suppose. As a climber who spends most of his time on less-than-vertical stuff, I wouldn't suggest it until they are a bit more confident on gear. It is a classic for the area too, there is often a rope on it nowadays.

PS- Also, mind sorting this with the rest of the crag? Kinda embarrassing for the crag to have so many out of order... One piece at a time