|Original:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|Submitted By:||James Otey on Aug 27, 2009|
|Comments on Tumbleweed||Add Comment|
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By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Not sure I'd call it low angle. The crux is the first 15 feet off the ground. That section is overhanging (bulgy). On lead it's a pumpy 5.4...which shouldn't happen on a 5.4. The lower ledges/foot holds are also polished, so stances are tough. IMHO, much harder than Jeff Loves Eileen or anything on the Goat Crack Wall. On top rope, I'm certain you can book through the overhanging section without even noticing it but the low crux means you either place gear or solo it. Definitely a hard 5.4 lead despite the great gear (G).|
By Bruce Monroe
Jul 18, 2014
|There is now a bolt anchor at the top of this climb.|
By James Otey
Jun 28, 2016
This is an ideal first trad lead because you can get good gear every couple feet, the foot holds are solid, and the topout is secure.
Great to hear it got bolted anchors. Hopefully that will reduce the vegetation damage that had been occurring over the years. Definitely a classic of the area!