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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Scheelite Crags…
> PSOM Slab
Tumbleweed Tales
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in PSOM Slab
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Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Breaking & Entering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Controversial Insert T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Litter S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Felony D.U.I. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Five Finger Discount T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Go Left Old Man S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Masters Of Choss 5.8+ T PG13 |
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Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slip and Slide S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Toe, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Elmar + Lisa Stefke, Em Holland, Doug Biber |
| Page Views: | 1,398 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | old5ten on Sep 18, 2017 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This route features excellent slab/thin face climbing on small edges and smears in a range of difficulties. Since the easier pitches are lower and the harder pitches are higher it is possible to climb just a few pitches or the whole climb. The P6 roof appears easy, but is actually quite burly and really out of character with the rest of the climb. Most climbers will probably stick with the first five pitches, which lowers the grade significantly.
P1 (5.7 PG-13/R) - Climb the first four bolts of Controversial Insert, then head up straight in a corner/flaring groove. Continue to the bottom anchor of Silver Streak. This is a full 70m pitch, the 2nd should be tied in and ready to go. While the crux is fairly well protected (small gear in flake to left of flaring groove) the easier terrain is a bit runout. Watch rope drag! 4 bolts, gear, 70m
Note:
1.) This is NOT a good pitch for beginning leaders.
2.) The route rappel on a single 70m rope does NOT come back down this way! See rappel description below!
P2 (5.9 PG-13) - Climb the first six bolts of Silver Streak, then climb toward the 7th bolt (If your 2nd is not strong on solid 5.9 slab you may want to clip the 7th bolt on Silver Streak with a sling before heading right. Note that this will slightly increase rope drag for the leader, but much better protect the initial moves after the 6th bolt for the 2nd). Upon encountering a rust streak (just below 7th bolt of Silver Streak) and easier terrain continue toward the right on an improbable ramp, then slab climb up and right past three bolts to an anchor in an alcove (just left of the 3rd pitch start on JFMB). 9 bolts, 38m
P3 (5.10a/b) - Continue up the face on small edges and smears along/just right of the bolts. Pass the easy lip to the anchor. 7 bolts, 27m
P4 (5.10a) - Follow bolts up the face on small edges and smears to a hidden alcove and anchor. This pitch is very similar to P3, maybe a tad easier. 10 bolts, 33m
P5 (5.10c) - Climb toward a small roof/lieback flake (5.9) from the left side of the alcove, then continue up the face to a tightly bolted crux (10c) section and the anchor. The crux may be a bit height dependent. Most climbers will probably stop here and rappel. Note rappel instructions below! 9 bolts, 26m
P6 (5.11b or 5.10A0) - Move up over easier ground (small gear) to a bolt below the roof. Surmount the burly roof (bolt, permadraw, and optional gear to 2") and continue up past a shallow groove (.75") and another bolt to the anchor. It is possible to A0 the roof with the permadraw. While this is easier than doing the roof clean, it still requires a couple of jams in the 5.10 range. Tape or gloves are recommended. 3 bolts, permadraw, gear, 34m
P1 (5.7 PG-13/R) - Climb the first four bolts of Controversial Insert, then head up straight in a corner/flaring groove. Continue to the bottom anchor of Silver Streak. This is a full 70m pitch, the 2nd should be tied in and ready to go. While the crux is fairly well protected (small gear in flake to left of flaring groove) the easier terrain is a bit runout. Watch rope drag! 4 bolts, gear, 70m
Note:
1.) This is NOT a good pitch for beginning leaders.
2.) The route rappel on a single 70m rope does NOT come back down this way! See rappel description below!
P2 (5.9 PG-13) - Climb the first six bolts of Silver Streak, then climb toward the 7th bolt (If your 2nd is not strong on solid 5.9 slab you may want to clip the 7th bolt on Silver Streak with a sling before heading right. Note that this will slightly increase rope drag for the leader, but much better protect the initial moves after the 6th bolt for the 2nd). Upon encountering a rust streak (just below 7th bolt of Silver Streak) and easier terrain continue toward the right on an improbable ramp, then slab climb up and right past three bolts to an anchor in an alcove (just left of the 3rd pitch start on JFMB). 9 bolts, 38m
P3 (5.10a/b) - Continue up the face on small edges and smears along/just right of the bolts. Pass the easy lip to the anchor. 7 bolts, 27m
P4 (5.10a) - Follow bolts up the face on small edges and smears to a hidden alcove and anchor. This pitch is very similar to P3, maybe a tad easier. 10 bolts, 33m
P5 (5.10c) - Climb toward a small roof/lieback flake (5.9) from the left side of the alcove, then continue up the face to a tightly bolted crux (10c) section and the anchor. The crux may be a bit height dependent. Most climbers will probably stop here and rappel. Note rappel instructions below! 9 bolts, 26m
P6 (5.11b or 5.10A0) - Move up over easier ground (small gear) to a bolt below the roof. Surmount the burly roof (bolt, permadraw, and optional gear to 2") and continue up past a shallow groove (.75") and another bolt to the anchor. It is possible to A0 the roof with the permadraw. While this is easier than doing the roof clean, it still requires a couple of jams in the 5.10 range. Tape or gloves are recommended. 3 bolts, permadraw, gear, 34m
Location
Start as for Controversial Insert (the 4-bolt, right variation start of Racing Lizards).
Descent - Rappel to the top of the second pitch with a single 70m rope. From there rappel or scramble down to the top of the 2nd pitch of John Fischer Memorial Buttress and continue rappelling from there. Always knot your rope, some of the rappels are tight. On the last rappel (1st pitch of JFMB) stay to climber's right in order to make it to the ground.
Descent - Rappel to the top of the second pitch with a single 70m rope. From there rappel or scramble down to the top of the 2nd pitch of John Fischer Memorial Buttress and continue rappelling from there. Always knot your rope, some of the rappels are tight. On the last rappel (1st pitch of JFMB) stay to climber's right in order to make it to the ground.
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