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Tuktoolong T 

Tuktoolong 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1 [details]
FA: Jesse Harvery, Cameron Burns, Mike Baker, Dec. 1997
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: toddgordon Gordon on May 27, 2007

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

5.7, A1, and 80 feet of climbing;...sound like an easy summit to tick? Guess again. We found this climb to NOT be an easy tick. We couldn't find an easy way to get to this tower, and it took a long time to get to the base, because we had to rope up, lead a 5.10 crack section, etc...and we still hadn't even reached the BASE of the climb! The first part of the climb is , yeah,...5.7.....with protection being pitons hammered into mud. Then you get to this bolt ladder section of pitons hammered into drilled holes;...only the holes weren't drilled deep enough , and the pitons are sticking WAY out;...it was sort of scary. Anyways;...we finally got to the summit, and survived this climb. Even though this climb has it's "issues"...we still had a fun adventure, and were glad we did it. I believe Eric Kohl and Beth Shilliday did another route on this spire; probably on the opposite side....I think it's a bit harder than this one...

Location 

Located just under the Kingfisher. It's the small spire that looks like a hammer.

Protection 

Cams small to large, maybe 10 pins ( LA's to angles)9, some tie-offs.


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By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jun 17, 2007

Todd, Not a Cam climb. A Jesse thing. I sat at the bottom in a blizzard (in a beeping slag), in about -10 temps and belayed. Very fun!
Cam
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 18, 2014

After some mudaineering to finally get to the base, we tried to spot the piton bolt ladder. I ended up climbing the other route, by mistake. Definitely wasn't A1....much scarier. Cool summit! Thanks for the find Cam!

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