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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: James Cruikshank
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: WMcD on Jan 7, 2016  with updates from moredaysoff

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This route is just left of Ungabunga and climbs a tricky slab to the large tufa system. Start more or less on the same crimps as Ungabunga but trend left through several bolts to a large rest standing on the huge tufa. Fun tufa climbing leads to the chains just left/below the crux on Ungabunga. You could easily clip the last bolt on Tufalero and continue up the Ungabunga fixed draws for a longer and more badass variation. Either way, this pitch is worthy.

"Bolted while having a sprained ankle and the first ascent came while using a knee pad on right knee instead of the foot".


Just feet off the road and immediately left of the obvious chalky start to Ungabunga.


Bolts to chain anchor.

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