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Tufa Yard Dash 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown, EB Kevin
Page Views: 6,654
Submitted By: Red on Oct 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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TUFA!!!

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

  • DO NOT CLIMB ON TUFAS AFTER HEAVY RAINS OR IF THE WALL APPEARS WET! Tufas are very fragile and break really easily when wet. Don't ruin climbs for everyone else!*

The largest single climbable tufa at the Homestead. Climb up HUGE tufa / face to inverted buckets to anchors. Amazing climb!

Location 

This route is located at the far right side of Tufa City just prior to Marley Wall. Base of the climb is 20 feet up the wall, fixed rope access. It is the second of the four routes (from left to right) at this belay station.

Protection 

13 Bolts. Biners at anchors.


Photos of Tufa Yard Dash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel Joannes Fighting the pump on the top of Tuf...
Daniel Joannes Fighting the pump on the top of Tuf...
Rock Climbing Photo: Epic scenery for an epic climb
Epic scenery for an epic climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Nick W. Taken from Johns Meat Market.
Photo by Nick W. Taken from Johns Meat Market.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin on (his) FFA two years after the the Fact.
Kevin on (his) FFA two years after the the Fact.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tufa Yard Dash
Tufa Yard Dash
Rock Climbing Photo: TYD
TYD
Rock Climbing Photo: TYD
TYD
Rock Climbing Photo: Tufa Yard Dash
Tufa Yard Dash
Rock Climbing Photo: the pumpy jugfest after the tufas and before the r...
the pumpy jugfest after the tufas and before the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed lovin the cool tufas Tufa Yard Dash (5.11)
Ed lovin the cool tufas Tufa Yard Dash (5.11)
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Switanek on the cool stuff.
Matt Switanek on the cool stuff.

Comments on Tufa Yard Dash Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 21, 2017
By BenClimbing
Dec 7, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is an indescribably incredible route and the bolt placements are very nicely done. Just to reiterate though, tufas that protrude farther from the wall than their own width are extremely vulnerable to breaking if lateral force is applied to them. Please try to tread softly on this route and stay off anytime you notice the wall is seeping and/or shortly after rainfall. Don't be responsible for this route being tragically ruined! Thanx.
By BenClimbing
Dec 10, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I checked in with Fred and learned that he named this route "John's Meat Market".
By BenClimbing
Dec 11, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

BTW, the route is about 70' from the belay ledge and 80' to the ground.
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Dec 29, 2009

Edit: John's Meat Market is two routes to the right. This route is called Tufa Yard Dash. TYD was bolted by Kevin ? from Oregon. I figured this out when we ran into Kevin on our way out / his way in to the Stead on 12-20-09.
By BenClimbing
Dec 29, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Cool. Strange series of mistakes led to these lines getting confused but it's good that it's all straightened out now. Great route.
By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Jan 2, 2010

This was the first time scene Kevin bolted the line (Jan 07) that we were able to climb on it Dry...if there could only be one 4 star route at the Stead this would be it!
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This route is the absolute best tufa jug haul at the stead. Thought it was Freds line, but I guess that is to the right. Climb it!
By RyanJames
Jan 2, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Certainly one of the best routes at the Stead!

One of the best bolted 5.11's in America? Quite possibly.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This has got to be one of the best lines in Southern Arizona. Fantastic!
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Definitely the most uniquely featured climb I have ever been on. Maybe my favorite route in AZ. 40-50 feet of amazing tufa pulling to a no hands rest into an absolute overhung bucket-fest. Definitely pumpy. Blew off the move to the finishing mantle a bunch of times from the pump. Highly recommended!
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Feb 1, 2012

Truly a super classic!! The juice is worth the squeeze, and spot on for the grade.
By Joseph M.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Awesome route through amazing features! Glad to have gotten the on-sight and look forward to doing this route every time I am at the Homestead!!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 23, 2012

There are at least 3 and maybe 5 no hands rests on this route. If you think it is hard or pumpy you are not using the rests.
By shotgunnelson
Jan 25, 2013

One of the best bolted elevens in the country. I smiled the whole time I was climbing this thing
By Rich Strang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jan 1, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

+1 to above
Possibly the best 5.11 I've ever done!!!!
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Dec 21, 2016

Heads up!!! There was a bee hive in the big pocket off the belay ledge that is needed to get to the first bolt. And because it requires a stick clip to get to the first fixed draw (crusty sun-bleached nylon anyhow), its not safely climbable unless you want to do some convoluted traverse in from the first bolt of the route to the right. The moves are possible without using the beehive pocket, but not safe!
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Jan 9, 2017

Most people do not belay from the ledge that Aaron Miller is referring to, but rather 30 feel below at the base of the cliff and trail. Also, that hive has been there longer that TYD has been bolted. Its level of activeness has varied over the years. This is only one of many active hives in the canyon. Always use caution when climbing in bee country.
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Jan 9, 2017

It was nice of someone to leave a fixed draw on the first bolt of this climb, however it is far too short and will not last long. It's already weathered and needs to be replaced with cable or chain. I recommend using an alpine draw or standard length sling for the first bolt to reduce rope drag on the tufas between the first and second bolts.

Or to avoid the bees a bit, you can clip the first bolt of Tufa One with a long draw and very easily climb into TYD.
By Yueyang Meng
From: Stevens Point, Wisconsin
Jan 21, 2017

Best 11 I ever climb!

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