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TuFa king $:@%*~! 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mike Vaughn
Page Views: 3,178
Submitted By: Red on Feb 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>


Good tufa climbing leads you up to a huge rest just before the line becomes inverted and the crux. From here it is all business. Pull this hard crux move and continue through the still challenging head wall to the anchors.

Greg Varela bolted this line.


This route is located at the far right side of Tufa City just prior to Marley Wall. Base of the climb is 20 feet up the wall, fixed rope access. Leftmost route of the four at this belay station.



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By RyanJames
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Great tufa climbing (5.11+) lead to a great rest under a roof. The moves getting over the roof are FOR REAL HARD! It felt like two V6's in a row. Then its about 20 feet of 5.12 to the anchors. The move getting to the hold to clip the anchors is AWESOME! I definitely logged some air time on that one.

I can't wait to go back and finish this one.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Nov 8, 2011
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

  • *** AS OF 11/06/11 I LEFT TWO DRAWS AT THE TOP OF THE ROUTE. 2nd/3rd bolt to the anchors and are not to be considered booty. I will be back for them next weekend.****

WOW WOW WOW. Ok just go bit by the project bug again. This is what I like to refer to as a full value climb. So as Ryan said before it's about 11+ (cough cough) more like 12- but anyways leads to a HUGE hueco roof with a full recovery rest before the business. The Roof is the CRUX of the route and should not be taken lightly. Boulder moves lead to flat ledge to clip from then a few more moves lead to large holds that face to the left and are good if you can lean hard to the right. And one more long pull to the last hanger to reach the anchors. See you next weekend.
By Mikie Elias
Dec 20, 2011

Patrick, i was able to go slightly to the right and up after the ledge past the crux. There's a two finger pocket on the right that i use as an undercling and then i bring my left into a shallow two finger pocket pull up to a pretty descent right hand crimp, get my left foot up high and toss to a left handed side pull. I left plenty of chalk on these holds and was wondering if you had seen them. Maybe get some feedback. I still need to send..
By Yun-yin
Jan 1, 2012

Stick to your beta, Mickie. It works. You're so close yesterday; crashing the crux every time. I think this is gonna be your first send in 2012! :D
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Jan 9, 2012

Mike Vaughn got the highly coveted first accent of this line yesterday. 1-8-11

The energy was there when he left the ground, I had the feeling he was about to get it. Fired every move with precision and accuracy. Great work Mike!

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