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Tubesteak Boogie 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Mark Athow
Season: Get on it when the gettin's good!
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: BBQ on Apr 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A tubesteak, boogying


I know a gal who lives on the hill, she won't climb this route but her sister will...

A fun, overhung boldery start which can get rather hairy real quick if you can't reach the first bolt and make a last second clip. The first bit of pro is very high off the ground, very far away and in some ways, can be very awkward to clip.

...she does the Tubesteak Boogie...boogie woogie baby, boogie woogie on up to that first bolt.

From there, this climb gets real fun and enjoyable real quick. Stick-clipping the first bolt is recommended, but free climbing to make your first clip is pretty exhilerating. Be safe, be confident, either way have fun with this classic Skeletal Remains testpiece that shows off one's ability to do a bold climb, that is, if you don't deck onto the sharp rocks below.


The very end of the wall. If you keep walking you will fun into a great 5.6 beginner climb known as Sewn Up.


Stick-clip, bouldering mats, a belayer who is not a total dink, a clear lead head, quite a bit of upper body strenth and fine tuned balance are a must for this climb. If you become totally unsure about the overhung lead, you can approach the first bolt from a ledge which jets out from Storm Troopers Of Love, but there have been multiple reports of climbers even abanding that move all together and sticking to the idea of leading Storm Troopers instead and set up atop rope for Tubesteak. This route has four widely spaced bolts and closed shut anchors that are shared with Storm Troopers of Love.

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