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Tsuri Gane 

WI6-

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 600'
Original: WI6- [details]
FA: Bob Shelton & Shigeki Nakayama, February 1985
Season: Winter
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Nick Weicht on May 6, 2014

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Constance crushing it on the top of pitch 1. The f...

Description 

Tsuri Gane means "Hanging Bell" and is located about 45 min up Sheep Creek. Pitch one consists of moderate mixed or ice. Short screws were the only protection to be had in the thick spots for the first 40m, then the ice got steeper and fatter at the top of pitch one on our last trip up in late Feb. Pitch two was in good shape with a few stretch of lower angle. 60m brings you to the bottom of the pillar. The third pitch is the money shot with an amazing (some times formed) free hanging ice pillar. From the top of the pillar top out the ice and traverse left to an avalanche path and follow it back to the canyon floor.

Protection 

Tsuri Gane is protected by ice screws and maybe mixed trad on the first pitch. Descend by rappelling the route from V threads or off alders.


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