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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Calder and Marty Lewis
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: rickziegler Ziegler on Mar 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Start on Tiananmen Square (10c, 5 bolts). Climb past Tiananmen anchors up the increasingly steep dihedral. Pull a hard move over the bulge and try not to pump out on the technical face above. Anchors replaced 3/2012.


Next route to the right of Yellow Peril


35m. 12 bolts.

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By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Nov 11, 2015

This climb is really quite excellent up top, but the start is somewhat heads up and the 10c crux on the lower section isn't anything all that special. It's a move, it's 10c, but it's not very memorable.

Very high first bolt at the start, probably too high to stick clip, and I had to do a pretty solid 5.10 move off a high right hand gaston to gain the giant flake about 15 feet off the ground, to move to the bolt at 20 feet off the ground. If you're solid at 5.11 it shouldn't be a big deal, but you're definitely in ankle breaker territory there, and the giant flake could be solid, or.. who knows!?

Either way, I'm thinking some key holds have shed off the base of this thing because it doesn't say anything about a hard move to get to the first bolt in the book.

Very worth while but be careful at the start..
By Raddam6
Mar 31, 2016

The route is four stars after the Midway anchors. I don't think the first bolt is unreasonable. Exactly where I would have put it. There is a somewhat insecure 5.9 move before the bolt but you wouldn't get hurt badly, just a slap on the wrist of you fell.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 25, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Or not?

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