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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paul Bjork - 1997
Page Views: 2,053
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Nov 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Another pumpy jug haul with a well/over protected sequency crux. Just before the crux is a no hands knee bar which is awkward to get into. This route is soft for it's orginal rating, 13b. Probably more like 12d/13a.


Same start as Natural Selection, then at the 4th bolt go right. Careful of the tree when lowering down.


Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos of Tsunami Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob hopped aboard the wave train and shredded the ...
Bob hopped aboard the wave train and shredded the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stretch shaking out on Tsunami on, possibly, the l...
Stretch shaking out on Tsunami on, possibly, the l...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 14, 2013
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 25, 2009

no pics? wtf? i'll take care of this...
By J.Flunker
Oct 8, 2010

What is the story with the pre crux knee-bar on this route? From what I understand the 12d/13a grade is dependent upon the knee-bar. Getting a solid knee -bar here seems to be very specific to distance between foot and knee.

Also, did a hold break semi-recently on the traverse towards the end of the crux (i.e. right of the knee-bar and directly above bad slopey pod and softball hold)?
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 11, 2010

most people do not use the knee bar because it is so hard to get it set up. knee bar or not, the difficulty of the climb remains the same.

as of yesterday, no hold had broken in the area you are discussing.
By AntVicino
Oct 14, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The knee-bar is accommodating to most leg lengths. It is all about finagling it in there with the right application of slopey feet. I agree with Randy, however, that the knee-bar wastes more energy than it saves.

Getting into it and comfortably holding it might be nice for a momentary break on the arms, but it burns alot of energy in the rest of your body. My recommendation is to shake out on the holds in the bottom of the hueco. Whether you use the knee bar or not, the grade remains unaffected at what some call 12d, others 13a.

No holds have broken through the crux sequence as of 10/12/2010.
By J.Flunker
Oct 18, 2010

Thanks for the knee-bar info. I had figured out the finagling-knee-bar-with-slopey-feet and found it to be strenuous and definitely kind of pointless. The reason the knee-bar interested me is that I had heard of someone getting a no-hands knee-bar. Not happening for me...
However, no big deal:
No knee-bars = more fitness!
Training bonus...
By AntVicino
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

If you are aiming for the no-handed knee bar, try working your leg in their sideways.. It's awkward, but if you get it just right it will lock you in really nicely. Doing the knee bar this way can be size dependent.
By AntVicino
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

J, by the way is it true you flashed this, Natural, and Genesis all in the same day?? Someone was telling me this the other day, and I was sure they must be confused.. Mad props if you did.. that is no small feat.
By J.Flunker
Oct 19, 2010

Man. I wish that were the case. That would be impressive!
...No, unfortunately I have to work for my 12s and 13s...

Also, looking for someone to climb with at willow, Wednesday (Oct. 19)?
By Ryan C.
From: Woodbury, MN
Jun 1, 2012

I heard the horn at the crux broke. Has anyone climbed it since this? How has it changed the sequence?
By ferris
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

the horn at the crux isn't there anymore. It seems to be considerably harder. it's still climbable though I did the moves just the other day.
By ferrells
Jun 14, 2013

^ i suspect a higher difficulty as well nic. However, everything feels hard to me, so ill leave it alone. Yeah, without the jug, the high crux requires actual climbing.


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