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YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Craig Smith, 1992
Page Views: 5,504
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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lily from an angle you dont normally see


Tsunami offers a varied tour of the left side of Waimea's central wall. The leftmost of the popular 5.12's (the others being Whip Tide, Aquarius, Techno, and Big Kahuna), Tsunami sees a fair amount of traffic.

Also typical of the climbs in this area, the start of Tsunami may prove troublesome. It must be the way the lower band of schist formed; all of the holds seem to point the wrong way. Stick clip the first bolt and crank hard to get on the wall. Shorter climbers might have to jump for the first hold. After the initial wall is breached, easy climbing leads to the base of the two foot wide roof.

The roof actually points down. The underclings underneath the roof are positive enough, but is hard to escape the feeling that the edge if the roof is cutting into your chest. A deft use of a heelhook on a sloping edge out right allows passage over the roof and onto the hanging steep slab. This slab, ala Aquarius, has some pretty good footholds, so it is possible to rest.

From the steep slab, head left to the arete itself. A considerable redpoint crux guards the chains. Top out on the mini ledge and clip the chains just to the left of Techno's anchors.


9 bolts

Photos of Tsunami Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: lily heading up to the roof
lily heading up to the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: lily under the big spooky roof.... DO THIS ROUTE!
lily under the big spooky roof.... DO THIS ROUTE!
Rock Climbing Photo: otey, workin it... i must say i love the compositi...
otey, workin it... i must say i love the compositi...
Rock Climbing Photo: lily at the lip of the roof on tsunami
lily at the lip of the roof on tsunami
Rock Climbing Photo: the imposing roof of Tsunami... this is one of the...
BETA PHOTO: the imposing roof of Tsunami... this is one of the...

Comments on Tsunami Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2017
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Aug 17, 2009

This route is rediculass.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 17, 2009

my fave 5.12 @ rumney :)
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 3, 2011

I fixed draws on this today... so i hope it gets the traffic it deserves now.... i couldnt remember which bolt the long draw worked best on, you can switch it if you like... enjoy
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

More people need to climb this route. It is way better than Techno (yeah I said it!) and Whip Tide, and may even edge out Aquarius.

I thought that the crux was pulling the roof. You can get it all back at the jug rest, so the upper crux isn't too bad.

The best 5.12 at Waimea in my opinion.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 28, 2011

im with you all the way Otey!
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Great route! I found it made a difference at the crux to make sure I was on my toe out near the edge of the slabby foothold, rather than using a heelhook. It made it a lot easier to rock over from the crimp match to get the reach. It made it so it wasn't really the crux for me any more.
By Seth Cohen
From: Concord, NH
May 19, 2013

Does this climb usually have fixed draws on it? I was at Waimea today and saw someone clean all the draws off it except for the one hanging over the roof. If it normally has fixed draws, why the clean? If it doesn't, what makes it different from the other 12s in the area?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 20, 2013

i had fixed draws on it last year and between people giving me crap about it and an expressed desire for a voluntary clean up of routes that don't really need fixed draws i took them down... since then they have been fixed off and on, i assume while people have been projecting it... how is it different? its not... however the only bolt that is hard to load a draw on is the one in the roof and it sounds like that one was left up... pretty easy to run up Flying Hawaiian or Techno and fix Tsunami on the way down too if you want them pre hung...
By Tom Armstrong
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

Hard sequences with great rests - what more could you want! I found an alternative start by coming in from Big K, maybe V4. Rating? I was convinced it was 12d until I sent, now I'm not so sure. I used the heel hook way right on the shelf where there's a divot - worked every time. Superb climb!
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 17, 2017

Yesterday I did the first half of this and finished on Techno... Fun if you know both routes well and want to mix things up. Bit run out as you head up the surf board on techno but that's not a hard spot relative to the rest of the climb.
By irujo
Apr 28, 2017

This route is hard as nails... sent dynosoar in about 1/3 of the time! So much fun though!
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 27, 2017

Nothing fancy this time but a lot of folks have a hard time in this one so torie was kind enough to shoot a bit of footage. should be helpful in the beta department... sorry for the lack of editing. I was having technical difficulties and just decided to post it up as is (fast forward through the resting ;)
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This is every bit as hard any any 12d at Rumney. The upper crux feels like it was pulled out of a 5.13 and thrown on a 5.12.

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